Each of us have our own way to splice barb wire that has broken or needs tightening for various reasons. I'm curious to know how each of you splice wire on your farm or ranch, and how long your method of splicing lasts? I'm not interested in how some people, particularly previous owners of our ranch, use a screw driver to twist a wire strand to tighten it- I've had too many of those wires break at the twist point.
Splicing broken barb wire in fence lines
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vhaby
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Not sure of the brand I use, but around 12 gauge. very tough stuff.
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The fix for hogs is one can of fly bait from tac 50 pounds of corn soaked in water add fly bait to the corn this will thin down the hogs.
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THESE ARE GREAT! WE DONT SELL THEM AND I FORGOT THE NAME, BUT AN INTERNET SEARCH CAN BE QUICK AS FIXING THEM.
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I have a hot wire powered by a Gallagher fence charger on the top of 4 ft net fence with 2 barb wires on the top to keep mine & neighbors bull apart. Both bulls have great respect for the charged wire. Texas fence fixer is a very good tool for splicing barbwire.
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I do not have much barb wire fencing, mostly the top strands over field wire. I have helped a friend splice barb and bought those hollow connectors from Tractor Supply. I originally crimped them but now just run the ends through the center and twist them neat. Has worked well so far and looks neat and tidy.
My method may not suit some but it works for me.I cut the broken strand a few inches form h e post and splice the break then splice a short piece to the other end and re-stretch. Makes it tight. Gallagher makes a splicing tool everyone should look into.LIttle three hole drilled pipe-type thing that works great.
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I have sheep so I use Page Wire fencing rather than electric or barb wire, but occasionally the top or bottom wires break from ice or drifted snow. In those cases I use daisy wheel fence tensioners and just leave them on. Some have been there for years without an issue.
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we use 12 gage for our high tensile. 1 strand 30'' high keeps all our beefers in without a problem.
Gave up splicing barbed wire and plain wire years ago.
I now use a product called a "Gripple" a self locking hollow connector.
I do not know the brand name elsewhere.
I unravel a few inches of the barbed wire on the two ends in between the tensioner jaws, after tensioning the two ends. I then insert the double wire of one end into and through one hollow and the other set through the other hollow, but I then add a little by winding the protruding ends around the taut wire.
Here is a Youtube link:
You could tension up with a texas fence fixer and cut the slack portion in the middle, between the jaws, and fit a gripple by hand.
Costs more than a splice but easy to do and no fail.
The Gripple tensioning tool is not suitable to use to tension a very loose fence although in the video the guy uses one on Barbed wire.
I now use a product called a "Gripple" a self locking hollow connector.
I do not know the brand name elsewhere.
I unravel a few inches of the barbed wire on the two ends in between the tensioner jaws, after tensioning the two ends. I then insert the double wire of one end into and through one hollow and the other set through the other hollow, but I then add a little by winding the protruding ends around the taut wire.
Here is a Youtube link:
You could tension up with a texas fence fixer and cut the slack portion in the middle, between the jaws, and fit a gripple by hand.
Costs more than a splice but easy to do and no fail.
The Gripple tensioning tool is not suitable to use to tension a very loose fence although in the video the guy uses one on Barbed wire.
Mate, you must be from a dry inland part of WA. I find in coastal south west Victoria that gripples don't work very well. They don't grip, so you have to twist the wire over itself to hold it. And after a year or two they don't slip if you want to tighten the wires. They rust up. I have pretty much given up on them.
I use barbed wire on the very top and bottom of my fences. Top for cattle, bottom for crossbred sheep. In between there is 8 line prefabricated. And a couple of electrified outriggers. It costs as though it is gold plated, but I don't want to have to do it again in my lifetime.
Roger
I use barbed wire on the very top and bottom of my fences. Top for cattle, bottom for crossbred sheep. In between there is 8 line prefabricated. And a couple of electrified outriggers. It costs as though it is gold plated, but I don't want to have to do it again in my lifetime.
Roger
Almost everywhere in Western Australia would be drier than SW Victoria.
Most times I have experienced Gripple failure is when the wire is under or close to the lower limit of the Gripple size e.g. 2 mm wire in the medium size (2mm to 3mm).
Agree they can rust up which means tightwad me can't reuse them in another fence.
I have fences 15 years old that look almost like new. Galvanised steel pickets, galvanised steel strainers and braces with heavy galvanised ringlock mesh 7.90.30 with 2.8 mm top and bottom lines and 2 high tensile barbed wires on top. Nothing goes through it although kangaroos do go over the top.
Lower quality mesh succumbs to 'roos that can push through by spreading the vertical lines and horizontal lines, thus open up a hole. With good quality mesh the verticals hold in place and the hole does not open.
For those in the US, a kangaroo is shaped like a wedge and if it can get its head through a hole it just pushes and pushes until it is through and those back legs have a great deal of push.
Most times I have experienced Gripple failure is when the wire is under or close to the lower limit of the Gripple size e.g. 2 mm wire in the medium size (2mm to 3mm).
Agree they can rust up which means tightwad me can't reuse them in another fence.
I have fences 15 years old that look almost like new. Galvanised steel pickets, galvanised steel strainers and braces with heavy galvanised ringlock mesh 7.90.30 with 2.8 mm top and bottom lines and 2 high tensile barbed wires on top. Nothing goes through it although kangaroos do go over the top.
Lower quality mesh succumbs to 'roos that can push through by spreading the vertical lines and horizontal lines, thus open up a hole. With good quality mesh the verticals hold in place and the hole does not open.
For those in the US, a kangaroo is shaped like a wedge and if it can get its head through a hole it just pushes and pushes until it is through and those back legs have a great deal of push.
True! Bits of the south west of WA would come close but that's about it.
The prefab I use is 8-90-30 griplock, made by Southen Wire in Perth. I haven't found better.
The idea for using a barbed belly wire came from a friend just out of Mount Barker in WA.
No roos here, but I do have a few koalas and the occasional wallaby.
Roger
The prefab I use is 8-90-30 griplock, made by Southen Wire in Perth. I haven't found better.
The idea for using a barbed belly wire came from a friend just out of Mount Barker in WA.
No roos here, but I do have a few koalas and the occasional wallaby.
Roger
The far south-west has dried out in more recent years and the annual rainfall is now more like that that used to be experienced north of Perth. The climate has dried so much that most of the underground caves (not that there are many above ground caves in the Naturliste/Leewin ridge have lost their lakes.
A property my father sold has State forest on 3 sides and the new owner fenced those boundaries in 1.8 metre (6 foot) fence with 8.90.15 fabricated mesh (do not know brand) on 2.4 metre (8 foot) steel pickets with 4 rows of high tensile barbed wire on top.
He also laid an apron of netting from a little up the fence down onto the ground and about 900mm (3feet) each way to stop roos pushing under the fence. i.e. they are standing on the netting apron and so can't get a gap to start opening.
Roos still get in, a few by jumping over and some by entering through the neighbouring property.
Domesticated pigs that have gone feral have now taken up residence in the forest and some landowners tried hot wires to keep them out. Doesn't work the pigs will line up the fence charge at it and begin squealing before reaching the fence in anticipation of the electric shock and just pop through ready to settle down to quiet munching.
A property my father sold has State forest on 3 sides and the new owner fenced those boundaries in 1.8 metre (6 foot) fence with 8.90.15 fabricated mesh (do not know brand) on 2.4 metre (8 foot) steel pickets with 4 rows of high tensile barbed wire on top.
He also laid an apron of netting from a little up the fence down onto the ground and about 900mm (3feet) each way to stop roos pushing under the fence. i.e. they are standing on the netting apron and so can't get a gap to start opening.
Roos still get in, a few by jumping over and some by entering through the neighbouring property.
Domesticated pigs that have gone feral have now taken up residence in the forest and some landowners tried hot wires to keep them out. Doesn't work the pigs will line up the fence charge at it and begin squealing before reaching the fence in anticipation of the electric shock and just pop through ready to settle down to quiet munching.
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THE BEST fence tool EVER made !!!! You beat me to it Stack !!!! DO NOT waste money on any other method !!! Don't even waste your labor TRYING anything else !!!! Double NUFF said !!!!!
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Kept my Angus in for years with a single strand of 14 gauge smooth at 24" above ground, and a HOT charger!
Always used western union splices for better conductivity.
When the wire got rusty I'd discard it.
Never wanted to work with barbed wire!
Always used western union splices for better conductivity.
When the wire got rusty I'd discard it.
Never wanted to work with barbed wire!
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