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Yesterday my tractor (Ford 4610) developed a fast drip at the flare fitting for one of the power steering hydraulic lines. I finished out the day raking and baling with it but had to continually stop and add more hydraulic fluid periodically. Naturally I've got another field to do tomorrow and can't go on in this fashion. I see there are copper flared gaskets for fixing leaks but it's a pretty obscure item that doesn't look like it's something I'll be able to procur *today*. Are there any creative or quick fixes that can at least get me buy, or even slow it down? And something I can get done yet today? Otherwise I'll resort to a borrowed tractor.
I had this problem on our Ford 4610. There was a crack in the flare. I re-flared the tube and it cracked again. It apparently happened before we owned the tractor because there was a union on the other line. I suppose if you can find a union and a piece of brake line that you might fix it that way. I ended up ordering a new line from NH for $100 because I didn't want to chase cracks through that tube. These tube needed to be clamped to prevent flexing at the attach fittings so the flares don't fatigue crack..
 
Well thanks for all the suggestions guys. This has become a bittersweet thread for me and reading back on it brought back some pain. I was trying to make this fix on Saturday AM of Memorial Day. Later that day my dad died unexpectedly after a surgery and the doctors still don't know why, and pretty obviously, this repair--and my haying--went on hold.

I just got back from being with my family in Iowa celebrating his life and am getting back to this now. I like the idea of a rubber hose because the steel line would vibrate very bad and is probably what caused this.

There is a clamp for the steel lines, and if I push the line all the way down in the clamp, there's no leak at the fitting. The problem is that clamp doesn't hold the steel line anymore and it just pops back out. I suppose I could just put a hydraulic hose on there or try a new clamp, or do both. I"m sure the clamp will eventually fail and I'll be back to this issue. I like the cleaner look of a steel hose better, personally, but I need to get back in business quick.

--Another question: on a bend in one of the lines for the power steering cooler, there's a pinhole leak, must be a stress crack. This is a very slow leak, but the entire cooler would need replaced ($250). It vibrates a lot which is prob why this cracked in the first place. Is there a type of metal epoxy that could patch this up? I've wondered if plug of JB Weld there would do the trick.
 
Wow Josh, sorry to hear about your fathers passing....it puts life in perspective for us sometimes, my condolences for your entire family.

In terms of the cooler....I have repaired some things that absolutely amazed me that JB Weld actually worked. Like any other adhesive type of application, cleanliness is paramount. That being said, with today's two-part epoxies, there may be better solutions from a myriad of manufactures, JB Weld included. If you use due diligence in cleaning/prepping the surfaces to be mated, you will probably like the results. In terms of the line, I would just order a new one and replace but as a stopgap, I would use any fix that deems appropriate to get by until the correct fix is accomplished. Hth
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
I got the lines off yesterday and indeed there was a crack in the tube flare as suspected by several. I'm not good at making flares so I'll take the line in this morning and have it repaired or a new one made.
 
I'm very sorry to hear of your loss.

What kind of material is the power steering cooler? If its copper I would get it soldered. If it's aluminum about the only option is epoxy, unless the line is thick enough to weld.
 
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Discussion starter · #29 ·
Thanks guys. This thread has taken kind of a weird turn.

To answer some of the questions, the line is 3/8" steel tubing (flared on both ends). To fix this, I will cut the steel line and they made a 1/4" hydraulic hose that will connect to the cut line via compression fitting and then the other end screws into an elbow into the power steering pump. This will be good because it will take out a lot of the vibration on that line which prob caused it to crack in the first place.

I'm not sure what the cooler is made out of. I put a plug of JB weld over the spot, it was just a slow weep where it leaked there. If it continues to leak I can take the cooler to a transmission shop and see if they can repair it.
 
Josh, as mentioned sorry for your loss.

On my Ford 5000 I wasn't successful using the hydraulic line, end up with a new section of steel tubing (about 24" long, already flared on both ends). I cut off the bad end (about 8-10" from my pump, where it was still straight), cut new tubing to fit (having a flare on one end naturally), put a coupling in the middle (joining the old piece with the new piece). I know about as clear as mud maybe.

Larry
 
Well thanks for all the suggestions guys. This has become a bittersweet thread for me and reading back on it brought back some pain. I was trying to make this fix on Saturday AM of Memorial Day. Later that day my dad died unexpectedly after a surgery and the doctors still don't know why, and pretty obviously, this repair--and my haying--went on hold.

I just got back from being with my family in Iowa celebrating his life and am getting back to this now. I like the idea of a rubber hose because the steel line would vibrate very bad and is probably what caused this.

There is a clamp for the steel lines, and if I push the line all the way down in the clamp, there's no leak at the fitting. The problem is that clamp doesn't hold the steel line anymore and it just pops back out. I suppose I could just put a hydraulic hose on there or try a new clamp, or do both. I"m sure the clamp will eventually fail and I'll be back to this issue. I like the cleaner look of a steel hose better, personally, but I need to get back in business quick.
--Another question: on a bend in one of the lines for the power steering cooler, there's a pinhole leak, must be a stress crack. This is a very slow leak, but the entire cooler would need replaced ($250). It vibrates a lot which is prob why this cracked in the first place. Is there a type of metal epoxy that could patch this up? I've wondered if plug of JB Weld there would do the trick.
Sorry about your Dad...

I'd braze the tube up on the cooler... Hose on the other line.

Best of luck... I'm sitting in the hospital with my Mom now... Surgery Monday for a hernia that rubbed holes in her intestines got sick Sunday night was fine at lunch...

Later and good luck! OL J R
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
The hose is working just dandy, I like that it's flexible and won't vibrate and crack again.

I'm going to take the cooler to a radiator shop and they'll fix it.

I hope things go ok for your mom JR. Ruptured intestines are a serious thing.
 
The hose is working just dandy, I like that it's flexible and won't vibrate and crack again.

I'm going to take the cooler to a radiator shop and they'll fix it.

I hope things go ok for your mom JR. Ruptured intestines are a serious thing.
Thanks...

I'm home for the weekend. Keira has a softball lesson this evening and we're getting her ready to go to church camp tomorrow. My sis and BIL and lil bro and SIL are at the hospital today... nice to FINALLY be home after over a week (we left last Friday morning for Betty to check in at school and drive to Ft. Worth for the nephew's wedding... came back to Victoria Tuesday afternoon and I've been between the hospital and Shiner ever since).

Guess I'll be back up there for a week come Monday. She's recovering well but it takes time... Grandma had this same surgery when she was in her early 80's and she recovered very well-- she was doing better after the recovery than she had for the previous 10 years...

Thanks again and later! OL J R :)
 
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