Have never run a Tedder so I can’t say as to what the cam on each wheel does but it looks to me as there’s supposed to be 2 rods that go from those pins on the front to the bolt holes on top of the outer basket towers. I assume to reduce the chance of the outer baskets flexing backwards while folded out?

 

Maybe the two pins were for a guard? My Kuhn tedders & rakes (newer models) both have pipe guards, I guess so you don't walk into the spinning parts

 

The second lever on each wheel is for adjusting tilt for your crop or conditions. Mine pretty much always stays in full tilt.

 

Rebranded that tedder is a NH 163. I have a bunch of arms that will fit it. Those "pins" are for guards to keep idiots from getting to close but don't stand up to to tight turns to well. I still have one that came off from ours. You don't want them, they get in the way. I will look, I may still have a manual for either the 163 or the 169 that would explain the lever your asking about. I have never messed with them.

Compare part prices. Might be cheaper at NH. When I purchased an arm for mine it came orange with Kuhn tag on it from NH.

 

The first thing you need to do is turn the caster wheels 180 degrees! I know, it seems counter productive, but that's the correct operating position!

HTH, Dave

 

If you plan on folding it, keep a hammer with you. The lock pins can be a pain sometimes.

 

Several teeth are on backwards.

 

The second lever on each wheel is for adjusting tilt for your crop or conditions. Mine pretty much always stays in full tilt.

The guy I bought it from said it would windrow if the speed was too high on it. My fastest field gear is 6 mph so I don't run at full PTO speed on Tedder but am not too far off from that simply because I don't want to be crawling through the field. Would adjusting that angle (assuming it's not already at the best angle) improve the spread and have less windrowing?

 

Rebranded that tedder is a NH 163. I have a bunch of arms that will fit it. Those "pins" are for guards to keep idiots from getting to close but don't stand up to to tight turns to well. I still have one that came off from ours. You don't want them, they get in the way. I will look, I may still have a manual for either the 163 or the 169 that would explain the lever your asking about. I have never messed with them.

Compare part prices. Might be cheaper at NH. When I purchased an arm for mine it came orange with Kuhn tag on it from NH.

I can't locate a manual for Kuhn but am sure I could for NH. If you can find yours that info would be helpful.

 

The first thing you need to do is turn the caster wheels 180 degrees! I know, it seems counter productive, but that's the correct operating position!
HTH, Dave

That was another question I had! What's correct orientation for casters in field position? I figured it out for transport position because there's only one way to lock the rears straight.

 

Have never run a Tedder so I can't say as to what the cam on each wheel does but it looks to me as there's supposed to be 2 rods that go from those pins on the front to the bolt holes on top of the outer basket towers. I assume to reduce the chance of the outer baskets flexing backwards while folded out?

Close guess! Looks like it was for the guards (duh!), so almost a similar concept.

 

On my tedder (a Krone) the angle of attack has more to do with the desired fluffiness of the crop. A heavier crop verses a lighter crop (and possibly a different crop), might be a reason to adjust the angle.

As far as windrowing, I don't think the angle would have as much impact as the rotor speed (at least that's my experience).

Larry

 

Contrary to what was mentioned earlier, the slower you run the rotors, the more windrowing you will get!

 

I can't locate a manual for Kuhn but am sure I could for NH. If you can find yours that info would be helpful.

You can go to the NH website and with a credit card download a manual in PDF form. I have done this with my NH equipment. I keep them on my tablet so they are handy. You can also print the pages if you need.

Parts diagrams online with NH are free and should give you a good visual too.

 

Rotor speed to ground speed is everything when tedding with those older units.

 

I can't locate a manual for Kuhn but am sure I could for NH. If you can find yours that info would be helpful.

Sorry, manuals left with the machines and had no luck on the Kuhn site. I can get the parts manual for a slightly newer one like your but they are not listing the owners manuals. Tried for both the 4 and 6 rotors. Seems to be some on ebay.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR10.TRC1.A0.H0.Xnew+holland+163+manual.TRS0&_nkw=new+holland+163+manual&_sacat=0

 

Have the same Tedder with an NH label. The folks here covered everything I think. Windrows with dry hay at low rpm. The second cam thing, I think you can set the height a bit for adjusting attack angle.

Tipping far forward throws hay higher but has bigger dead spot between baskets for picking up hay. Low and less aggressive forward tilt picks up better between rotors but doesn't throw as far.

 

Looks like a rebadged Tonutti tedder I had.

 

I just got the same Tedder and was looking for a book and some parts and now with some looking it looks like it is the same as the older new holland 163 and John Deere 752 Tedder. So I just ordered a owners manual off eBay for a John Deere 752 for $8.00 hoopfully I am right.

 

Hope this helps.