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Hello.

I'm new to baling and i bought my own baler (NH 366 - for Europe). Today was the first day of baling. For first time baler gone good. But i have one other problems with twine is everywhere around on the field, on the bale,... It is always about 30 mm long.

The problems is viewed on the photos:

Twig Natural material Organism Wood Grass Plant Twig Grass Agriculture Composite material

If i would say what is wrong, i would say i should replace the knife for twine. I know, there are some professionals, they know exacly....

Thank you for answers.
 

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If you are referring to the short chunks of twine that is lying loose on top of the bales that is normal. Welcome to Haytalk. As far as the twine knife it can be sharpened unless it has been damaged or worn significantly. . Do you have a book for your baler? It should show you how to access the knife. Basically the sharper the better, some people sharpen new knives before using them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
If you are referring to the short chunks of twine that is lying loose on top of the bales that is normal. Welcome to Haytalk. As far as the twine knife it can be sharpened unless it has been damaged or worn significantly. . Do you have a book for your baler? It should show you how to access the knife. Basically the sharper the better, some people sharpen new knives before using them.
Thank you. Yes, i'm referring on that. I'm baling for few sesons, but with Welger baler (in our region is more popular) and there was never such a small parts of twine. Yes, I have book in PDF, i know how to change it, but i'm looking for right mistake. Those knifes were not sharpen few years (and made 500-1000 bales/yearly).

One question for others: How often you're sharpening the knifes?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
As mentioned, that's normal...might tighten up on that bale density a bit, it'll help...still gonna leave tails tho, it's the nature of the beast.
Welcome to Haytalk
Thank you, for your welcome. So do you think i will not help, if i change the knifes?

If I look baler, on one side, the knife is still made with rivets, but on other there are already bolts, so i think one knife was changed.
 

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I have heard of "tailless knotters". I believe In small squares, some Freeman, Welger, at lease some Massey balers and some International balers have tailless knotters. I'm no expert at all.
 

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Thank you, for your welcome. So do you think i will not help, if i change the knifes?
If I look baler, on one side, the knife is still made with rivets, but on other there are already bolts, so i think one knife was changed.
No I don't think so, it may make the cuts easier but it's still gonna leave those tails.....but the local bird population needs some nesting material,they will appreciate you :eek:
 

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One question for others: How often you're sharpening the knifes?
It depends on the baler, I had an old Cockshutt that never needed sharpening and a JD 14T that needed yearly sharpening. Have a look at the cut side of the bale and see how clean the cut is and let that be your guide.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
No I don't think so, it may make the cuts easier but it's still gonna leave those tails.....but the local bird population needs some nesting material,they will appreciate you :eek:
Heh, thank you for answer.

I don't want to open the new thead. Have Anybody install hydraulic pickup on New Holland baler? Have some pictures to see how they solve pickup. (my next invest) :)

Thank you
 

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For the record, this is a rather, well....wiser baler, Like maybe a 273 or earlier square baler.
I had a 273 and The least of my problems was pickup on the baler, it was always pick up out of the fields :eek:
Oh how i don't miss those days.....
 

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Have Anybody install hydraulic pickup on New Holland baler? Have some pictures to see how they solve pickup. (my next invest) :)
Thank you
I can get some pix of a NH5070, but don't know if it would fit your need. What model equivalent are you attempting this feat on? Bear in mind that mine is a factory installed version.

Larry
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I can get some pix of a NH5070, but don't know if it would fit your need. What model equivalent are you attempting this feat on? Bear in mind that mine is a factory installed version.

Larry
Yes, more pictures i get, then i could decide for pickup...
 

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MF “sure tie” knotters don’t leave tails but used to have lots of other problems with them!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
An another question from experts.... i get visit of my neighbour, who have another baler and he already said, i have to much space on this part ( i don't know the right word for it). How i could realese the space? Jaw Red Gas Art Snout Beside that, baler goes good, but preventive is better than curative....

THanks.
 

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I have yet to have a baler with hydraulic pick up lift, but I have never run a baler with out the pick up gauge wheel. Lower the pick up until the gauge wheel touches, then crank just a bit of slack in it and your good to go. Not much slack so the gauge wheel can't fall in a rut and turn the pick up fingers into tillage tools, but a little bit so when the baler tire goes over a mole hill it's not pulling the pick up off the ground. If you cross a hole or rut the pick up won't fall in because the pick up crank holds it from going down much when the gauge wheel crosses and then the gauge wheel holds the pick up when the baler tire goes through. As rough as some of the ground people call hay fields is I wouldn't want to bale without a gauge wheel.
 

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An another question from experts.... i get visit of my neighbour, who have another baler and he already said, i have to much space on this part ( i don't know the right word for it). How i could realese the space?
attachicon.gif
zrak.png Beside that, baler goes good, but preventive is better than curative....

THanks.
It's hard to tell from the picture, but I believe that sweeps the knot off of the billhook....let me tell you something my dad told me years ago and it applies here...."if it broke, don't fix it"
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
It's hard to tell from the picture, but I believe that sweeps the knot off of the billhook....let me tell you something my dad told me years ago and it applies here...."if it broke, don't fix it"
No, if you wrote so... billhook is ok, the knot is fine at the end... as i wrote my neighbour and i took the bale from chamber and see, the twine on right side is tight, on left side is free, and he tried billhook, and said, i have too much space on that, try to make it

without airiness (left side have about 10 mm, right side is without airiness). He said, the billhook had probably one spring in, to tight it...
I tried to fix that...

I have yet to have a baler with hydraulic pick up lift, but I have never run a baler with out the pick up gauge wheel. Lower the pick up until the gauge wheel touches, then crank just a bit of slack in it and your good to go. Not much slack so the gauge wheel can't fall in a rut and turn the pick up fingers into tillage tools, but a little bit so when the baler tire goes over a mole hill it's not pulling the pick up off the ground. If you cross a hole or rut the pick up won't fall in because the pick up crank holds it from going down much when the gauge wheel crosses and then the gauge wheel holds the pick up when the baler tire goes through. As rough as some of the ground people call hay fields is I wouldn't want to bale without a gauge wheel.
I have wheel, and i leave it on the pickup. I only would make manual pickup with hydraulic.
 
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