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Hah, ya, not much in the way of fancy here. Building needs quite a bit of work yet and I'm already about 20 grand into it. Some people on agtalk are daft. They either think you need a half million dollar shop if you want to change oil in your lawnmower or they think having a $5,000 dollar shack to fix things in is a sinful luxury.
Talking with hired man of BTO one night in the bar.He said they take the tractors to town because the BTO is afraid they might spill some oil on the floor.The shop is fully equipped with tools that are never used.

But he did get in Farm Journal magazine in a article about farm shops.
 

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Update. After 2 weeks of making hay and corn silage, back to the fun. First picture is with the bearing carrier housing removed. The forward and reverse clutches are the top shaft in the rear housing. Second picture is the forward and reverse clutch shaft assembly.

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Hay Master (Supposedly)
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Do not use open flame to heat bearings for installation. I suspect that is what happened to these two bearings. Automotive tire Tire Rim Font Wood
 

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Looks like maybe somebody did use an open flame on those. I used to do more of that stuff and used a deep fat fryer filled with hydraulic oil. Put the bearings in cool oil with a wire on them so they could be fished out and they got heated evenly and to a set temp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Back to work on this project. Never did get it finished last year, ran into some problems that needed to be addressed before the transmission got wheeled back together. The worse of the two problems was a worn bore where the MFD output shaft comes out of the transmission housing. Where the bearing cups ride the housing is worn more than .020 over size. Planning to bore the housing to accept a bearing with a bigger cup OD. Need to recut the snap ring grooves also. Not a real expensive deal but going to be time consuming.
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Hay Master (Supposedly)
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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Can you get a mobile pin welder guy to drop in to build it up and rebore it?
I suppose but

1) why not just cut the bore oversize in the first place as the bearings to do so are readily available and the bore will have to be re cut anyway if it is welded up and

2) I'm not sure it will work to weld a bore in an iron housing.
 

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1) I agree mostly but can be a pain in future for someone else to work on with non-standard parts. Not a huge deal though.

2) Will work but you're right, huge pain to clean/weld oil impregnated cast.

I suppose but

1) why not just cut the bore oversize in the first place as the bearings to do so are readily available and the bore will have to be re cut anyway if it is welded up and

2) I'm not sure it will work to weld a bore in an iron housing.
 

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I've actually taken a cast housing, chucked it in the lathe, turned it out then used another piece of cast iron to turn a bushing then press the bushing into the original housing with plenty of sleeve lock on it then reinstall the original bearing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
More pictures of the trans work on the MX150. Reboring the MFD outpost shaft bearing bore. First picture is some of the frame for the boring bar setup. Second picture is
closer up to the bore, shows the Enco automatic boring head. Third picture is the finished product, honed to final size.


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Discussion Starter · #32 · (Edited)
Then on the other end of this axis, the bore that serves to supply the oil pressure for the MFD clutch has to be redone also. Something bad must have happened to the original bore, and some ham fisted wrench thrower took a twist drill and hacked the bore larger (see the chatter marks around the pilot hole at the rear of the bore), cut a crude sleeve, and glued it in with Loctite. That sleeve was worn, and its straightness and concentricity were suspect, so time to rebore it and make a new sleeve.
First picture is after being rebored.
Second picture is the setup. The support for the MFD clutch shaft was used to support one end of a pilot, the other end was in the counterbore of the main housing.
Third picture is the components used to do the boring; a pilot sleeve, a spindle to fit in it, a end mill to do the actual boring, and a drill adapter to drive the spindle and end mill. Took days to make the parts, minutes to do the actual rebore.
Fourth picture is the new sleeve. Made of stress proof steel.
Last picture is sleeve installed. Little bit of interference fit plus some Loctite 680.







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Always enjoy opening something up and noticing that someone has "repaired" a precision fit up with some weld, twist drill, tin shim, braze, etc.

Quite the project but when its done it'll be done right and probably outlast the rest of the tractor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
The MX150 is back at work. For some reason I never mentioned that the forward clutch dragging was not caused by a fried clutch pack/warped plates. They were due for replacement but not destroyed. Apparently the problem was a tooth broken off a friction disc had lodged in a hole of the clutch drum which prevented the full release of the clutch pack.
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