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Hay Master (Supposedly)
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The forward clutch started dragging on this tractor. Hydraulic pressure test verified that there was zero pressure on the F circuit in neutral so that almost certainly means the forward clutch is burned and warped. So now we get to do a rear trans split to renew the F clutch, most likely do the R clutch at the same time. I will try to post pictures as I go.
 

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Hay Master (Supposedly)
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Rear end on blocks for now and wheels are off. In their infinite wisdom CIH chose to use a unicorn metric thread for the stand mounting holes on the bottom of the transmission housings. I am waiting for bolts to come, then I can get the rear end on stands.
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Hay Master (Supposedly)
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That's a good project Gearclash. Too bad it didn't hang in there to finish out the season for you. What unicorn metric thread did you need?
Some dingbat in CIH thought it would be cool to spec M20-2.0 for the holes under the transmission housing.

Actually, this tractor hasn't started the season yet. The clutch took a dump last winter and I have finally started on it. Will need it in 6 weeks or so.
 

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Hay Master (Supposedly)
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Geez Gearclash, I don't understand how you can possibly get anything repaired in that so-called "shop" without the $350,000 RV and the basketball hoop. That tractor is in the way of getting some real work done! Lol, giving you crap. I saw on NAT you were looking for those bolts but am glad you found some. Good luck on the project. Shouldn't be baling stalks till about mid-December if my calculations are correct.
Hah, ya, not much in the way of fancy here. Building needs quite a bit of work yet and I'm already about 20 grand into it. Some people on agtalk are daft. They either think you need a half million dollar shop if you want to change oil in your lawnmower or they think having a $5,000 dollar shack to fix things in is a sinful luxury.
 

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Hay Master (Supposedly)
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
M20-1.5 is far easier to come by in the US than M20-2.0. Almost every supplier that lists M20-2.0 doesn’t have it in stock. I just ordered some from McMaster-Carr, hopefully they are the right thing.
 

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Hay Master (Supposedly)
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Fuel tank off and some other stuff off. Cleaned about 5 lbs of crap off the trans housings. Really not a bad job so far.
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Hay Master (Supposedly)
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Good work Gearclash. I need to post updates to my project as well. I just pulled the trans on my JD 7420 last week. Quite a different process.
I would like to see pictures and commentary of your project. What was the problem with it?
 

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Hay Master (Supposedly)
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Hydraulic oil drained, on stands, a few things to disconnect yet then time to split.
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There is a sizable access plate in the floor of these cabs.
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Obviously not your first rodeo with that splitting stand!
Actually it is. Just made it for this deal. I haven't done a split like this before either.
 

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Hay Master (Supposedly)
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And it is apart. Looks like I have to remove the bearing carrier from range transmission yet. Also noticed a cracked hydraulic pipe in the speed trans that needs to be checked out. Another problem that needs to be fixed is the rear axle seals. One seeps a little, the other leaks badly. I think I am going to pull the axle assy off and have another shop do that as these are flange axles and the axle and housing have to be disassembled to replace the seals. I'm not sure I can get the bearing preload set right if I do it my self.
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Update. After 2 weeks of making hay and corn silage, back to the fun. First picture is with the bearing carrier housing removed. The forward and reverse clutches are the top shaft in the rear housing. Second picture is the forward and reverse clutch shaft assembly.

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Do not use open flame to heat bearings for installation. I suspect that is what happened to these two bearings. Automotive tire Tire Rim Font Wood
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Back to work on this project. Never did get it finished last year, ran into some problems that needed to be addressed before the transmission got wheeled back together. The worse of the two problems was a worn bore where the MFD output shaft comes out of the transmission housing. Where the bearing cups ride the housing is worn more than .020 over size. Planning to bore the housing to accept a bearing with a bigger cup OD. Need to recut the snap ring grooves also. Not a real expensive deal but going to be time consuming.
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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Can you get a mobile pin welder guy to drop in to build it up and rebore it?
I suppose but

1) why not just cut the bore oversize in the first place as the bearings to do so are readily available and the bore will have to be re cut anyway if it is welded up and

2) I'm not sure it will work to weld a bore in an iron housing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
More pictures of the trans work on the MX150. Reboring the MFD outpost shaft bearing bore. First picture is some of the frame for the boring bar setup. Second picture is
closer up to the bore, shows the Enco automatic boring head. Third picture is the finished product, honed to final size.


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Discussion Starter · #32 · (Edited)
Then on the other end of this axis, the bore that serves to supply the oil pressure for the MFD clutch has to be redone also. Something bad must have happened to the original bore, and some ham fisted wrench thrower took a twist drill and hacked the bore larger (see the chatter marks around the pilot hole at the rear of the bore), cut a crude sleeve, and glued it in with Loctite. That sleeve was worn, and its straightness and concentricity were suspect, so time to rebore it and make a new sleeve.
First picture is after being rebored.
Second picture is the setup. The support for the MFD clutch shaft was used to support one end of a pilot, the other end was in the counterbore of the main housing.
Third picture is the components used to do the boring; a pilot sleeve, a spindle to fit in it, a end mill to do the actual boring, and a drill adapter to drive the spindle and end mill. Took days to make the parts, minutes to do the actual rebore.
Fourth picture is the new sleeve. Made of stress proof steel.
Last picture is sleeve installed. Little bit of interference fit plus some Loctite 680.







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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
The MX150 is back at work. For some reason I never mentioned that the forward clutch dragging was not caused by a fried clutch pack/warped plates. They were due for replacement but not destroyed. Apparently the problem was a tooth broken off a friction disc had lodged in a hole of the clutch drum which prevented the full release of the clutch pack.
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