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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone know where I can get the 3" nut at the bottom of the tension spring? Or know how to get them off the spring?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Oh it's on my New Holland 847 round baler!!
 

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Moved to the Machinery forum. @mike10 ?
 
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If the spring is not broken close to the nut, clamp the spring in a vice and put a pipe wrench on the end of the nut. Turn the pipe wrench in the direction to remove the nut AND at the same time take a hammer and hit the end of the exposed end of the coil like turning the spring off the nut. Adding some lubrication through the coils will make it a little easier to turn the nut.

If the spring is broken and is going to be replaced, then just torch the coils on the nut. The spring nut has two flat sides so run the torch up the coil at the flat sides of the nut.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If the spring is not broken close to the nut, clamp the spring in a vice and put a pipe wrench on the end of the nut. Turn the pipe wrench in the direction to remove the nut AND at the same time take a hammer and hit the end of the exposed end of the coil like turning the spring off the nut. Adding some lubrication through the coils will make it a little easier to turn the nut.

If the spring is broken and is going to be replaced, then just torch the coils on the nut. The spring nut has two flat sides so run the torch up the coil at the flat sides of the nut.
Thanks, but I've tried doing like you said & had the spring soaking in a bucket of oil so it's well lubricated it just wont budge!!
If the spring is not broken close to the nut, clamp the spring in a vice and put a pipe wrench on the end of the nut. Turn the pipe wrench in the direction to remove the nut AND at the same time take a hammer and hit the end of the exposed end of the coil like turning the spring off the nut. Adding some lubrication through the coils will make it a little easier to turn the nut.

If the spring is broken and is going to be replaced, then just torch the coils on the nut. The spring nut has two flat sides so run the torch up the coil at the flat sides of the nut.
I've
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks, but I've tried doing like you said & had the spring soaking in a bucket of oil so it's well lubricated it just wont budge!!
I've
I hate to cut the spring if it's not broken but the springs can't be used or adjusted it the tension isn't adjustable, I was told that the baler doesn't need the double springs unless your baling silage
 

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Not sure how you are doing it, but the spring will need to be in a vice with the end of the coil facing up or in a position you can get a good hit on the end of the coil. You will be hitting the end of the coil to rotate the spring. Before hitting the end of the coil take a large pipe wrench on the square end of the nut and twist the spring so you have a radial force against the spring. Now hit the end of the spring to drive the spring in the direction to unscrew the spring. A small pipe wrench or small hammer will not get the job done.

Just curious, why do you want to remove the nut?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Not sure how you are doing it, but the spring will need to be in a vice with the end of the coil facing up or in a position you can get a good hit on the end of the coil. You will be hitting the end of the coil to rotate the spring. Before hitting the end of the coil take a large pipe wrench on the square end of the nut and twist the spring so you have a radial force against the spring. Now hit the end of the spring to drive the spring in the direction to unscrew the spring. A small pipe wrench or small hammer will not get the job done.

Just curious, why do you want to remove the nut?
The guy that had the baler before me adjusted the springs all the way & dogged the all thread off so I couldn't adjust it for a lighter bale, he seemed to be proud as to tell me "that thing will do a 1300lb bale " of course not everyone wants a 1300lb bale with a light or medium size tractor!! The book fir the baler specifies not to tighten the springs fewer than 3" between the bottom of the spring & mounting plate as it could result in premature wear in the expensive parts of the baler!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The guy that had the baler before me adjusted the springs all the way & dogged the all thread off so I couldn't adjust it for a lighter bale, he seemed to be proud as to tell me "that thing will do a 1300lb bale " of course not everyone wants a 1300lb bale with a light or medium size tractor!! The book fir the baler specifies not to tighten the springs fewer than 3" between the bottom of the spring & mounting plate as it could result in premature wear in the expensive parts of the baler!!
The reason I want the nut out of the spring is I need the all thread out to put new in so I can adjust the tensioners & get the bake weight I want
 

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First, the 847 will not make a 1300 lb bale unless you are baling wet hay. 800 lbs would be more like it. The 851 was supposedly a 1500 lb bale, then the 849 was a 1200 baler and I would have to check but the 847 was a 800 lb baler. My recommendation, for what it is worth, is leave the springs alone. Try the baler first and if you feel they are to heavy then increase your ground speed or cut your engine speed.

Adjusting the springs will not make that much of a difference anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
First, the 847 will not make a 1300 lb bale unless you are baling wet hay. 800 lbs would be more like it. The 851 was supposedly a 1500 lb bale, then the 849 was a 1200 baler and I would have to check but the 847 was a 800 lb baler. My recommendation, for what it is worth, is leave the springs alone. Try the baler first and if you feel they are to heavy then increase your ground speed or cut your engine speed.

Adjusting the springs will not make that much of a difference anyway.

I have tried the baler & my ford 3000 wouldn't pick them up to put them on the trailer, I asked a friend of mine about his, he has a 846 & he said he only uses 2 springs on his cause the New Holland dealership got the information from one of their older technicians who actually worked on these chain balers & he said that the only time you need the second set of springs was when you were baling silage with a tight core, he said you don't need a tight core with hay because of moisture & the heat process that round bales go through!! My friend was having the same problem I was having with the core so tight the hay spear wouldn't penetrate it to pick it up then when you did finally get the spear in the lift would just barely pick up the bale!! Thank you for your help, I will try the baler now since I have 2 of the springs still on the baler & try again this spring
 

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Hattcreek Farm
What type hay were you baling? Did you test moisture % of hay? Another option to lowering bale weight would be to make smaller diameter bales
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hattcreek Farm
What type hay were you baling? Did you test moisture % of hay? Another option to lowering bale weight would be to make smaller diameter bales
Moisture content was about 19%
 

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The 847 was a decent baler, but I can see if you are also using the 3000 to bale that you are driving slow. The more the bale rotates the tighter the bale will get. I can not remember any of our customers using that size tractor to bale with. Our problems were not of the bale being to tight but not tight enough.

If you can not increase your ground speed or windrow size then your only option is to loosen the springs.

If you have the owners manual you might want to check on page 44, in my manual, on how to change the density by repositioning the density cams on each side of the take up arm. The cables from the factory run over the top of these cams. Remove the brackets and cams and then raise and latch the tailgate. Reinstall the cams so the cable is now below the cams.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Moisture content was about 19%
I bale squares bales around 14 & round from 17-20
The 847 was a decent baler, but I can see if you are also using the 3000 to bale that you are driving slow. The more the bale rotates the tighter the bale will get. I can not remember any of our customers using that size tractor to bale with. Our problems were not of the bale being to tight but not tight enough.

If you can not increase your ground speed or windrow size then your only option is to loosen the springs.

If you have the owners manual you might want to check on page 44, in my manual, on how to change the density by repositioning the density cams on each side of the take up arm. The cables from the factory run over the top of these cams. Remove the brackets and cams and then raise and latch the tailgate. Reinstall the cams so the cable is now below the cams.
My manual says nothing about repositioning the cams but it did come from tractor supply so it may not have everything that the factory manual has, matter of fact there isn't a lot it does say about bale density,!! I've removed the 2 springs that are dogged off to work on them to get them adjustable, but if it works well with the 2 I might just leave it & work on the other 2 for spares!!
 
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