Stub guard kits
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I thought that too. Are there 3 heights? My 477 has low (maybe medium?) over the bushing end on a bolted bar. Maybe I am missing something.
Before bolt on sections became available the, what you call medium, were used at the knife head end and then lower hold downs the rest of the way.
The medium hold downs are now used in place of the lower hold downs with the addition of higher hold downs at the knife head end. There is also a high short hold down at the last guard.
The medium hold downs are now used in place of the lower hold downs with the addition of higher hold downs at the knife head end. There is also a high short hold down at the last guard.
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1,407 Posts
I bought my hold downs from Shoup. As well as the guards. They have a low and a high. Get the 3 high as mentioned for the knife head end and the low hold downs just barely clear the bolt on sections for the rest of the knife.
The special guards (one short and one long guard) that go on the very ends I had to buy from New Holland, as well as the special hold down at the very end opposite the knife head.
The special guards (one short and one long guard) that go on the very ends I had to buy from New Holland, as well as the special hold down at the very end opposite the knife head.
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100 Posts
Yes, as you suggested. I am not sure exactly what guards I have on my 477, but the 488 needs the three higher hold downs at the knife head. All done and cuts MUCH better now. I am sure that they have an use, but standard guards are not the best solution for my operation. Thanks for the help.
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1,407 Posts
Your 477 would need/have the higher guards at the knife head as well. Aside from the shorter length, they use the same sickle.
I looked into converting my JD 1209 to what JD calls non clogs, but are stub guards to everyone else. Just the guards and hold downs came out to nearly $600 from Webb and an additional $247 for the sickle bar and head. Total conversion cost was $839.46. This was last October. Everything has gone up so probably closer to $800 for just the guards, which is all I would need since already have a new sickle bar, hold downs, and wear plates. For now it was less costly to replace 3 guards, the wear plates, hold downs and bar. Later on if I determine it will be a better solution, IE, guards on it clog a lot, then I will go that route, but for now, just getting it to full working order is enough.
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100 Posts
My 477 has a mix of heights and the highest are not at the left side.
I think I’m in it $850 because I wanted them in my hands. Cut 10 acres today and night and day difference better.
I think I’m in it $850 because I wanted them in my hands. Cut 10 acres today and night and day difference better.
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459 Posts
I converted my 467 to stub guards and I'd never want to use standard guards again. I used the half stub/half standard guards for each end. The standard part of the guard point goes in the guard tube. I got them from Joe's Machine LLC in PA. Amish machine shop, and they don't have a website so you can to call to order stuff.
I also put adjustable hold downs on it, and although I was told they wouldn't work and were not recommended, they actually work great.
I also put adjustable hold downs on it, and although I was told they wouldn't work and were not recommended, they actually work great.
Are shims still required with the adjustable hold downs?
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459 Posts
I used the ones that came with the adjustable hold downs. I shimmed them so they were just above the sections on the cutter bar, then adjusted the hold downs. Worked pretty well.
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100 Posts
Please send photos of your arrangement
No, it is not the correct part. If you would cut that hold down at the 4 shown on the part, the short piece to the right is what correct part looks like. That part then bolts to the very last guard bolt with the hex bolt. Place a 3/8" flat washer under the hold down since the sheet metal floor ends before the last bolt. That way the hold down is at the same level as the rest of the cutter bar.
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