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“Not a real farmer” farmer
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Need rear ballast for my XCB tractor. My old one had a rack of rear weights. Thought the newer one, being 3,000lbs heavier I thought would be able to handle front mower fine, but shes too light on the rear tires.

Front mower weighs 3,000lbs.

As much as I want to, I cannot fill the rear tires. Once a tractor goes over 29-MPH, the fluid goes over the top of the rim and will shake the tractor violently.

So I am left with 2 choices, rear rack of weights (big $$$ & long wait), cast rim weights (if they make them, long wait, big $$$) or a 3pt hitch ballast box.

I don't mind the ballast box because I don't use the 3pt for much anything else, its easy to remove and its probably the cheapest option. It can be removed quickly. I can get a ballast box from Deere, but $1,200 and a yard of ready mix concrete another $300.

Any other ideas/suggestions?
 

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Hay Master (Supposedly)
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Concrete is considerably less dense than iron or steel . . . I have been eyeing some very thick (as in 2-3-4 inch thick) steel plates at the local salvage yard thinking they would be cheaper weight at $.35 per lb than the going rate of $1.00 a lb for front end weights. One big chunk of plate on a 3 point mount would be a lot of weight.
 

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Goontard
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I agree with Gearclash. I was doing a little math and 12 @1"X12" plates x 6' long would give you @3000 lbs. New steel is costing me @$.58 per pound. So, for a little north of 17 hundred, you could have 3k weights that fit in snug to the tractor and would also make a "bumper" for the back. It would als be substantial enough to weld a hitch to the "bumper" if that would be handy.

Scrap would be a LOT cheaper. I think a ballast box should be able to be hired-built WAY less than 1200...then fill the box with smallish scrap iron or sand.
...than again, concrete (here) is still less than a hundred bucks a yard.

Tractor weights (name brand) still run $.85-$1.00 here, but Massey combine suitcase weights can be had for @ $.33 per pound...it would take a slew of them though.

Mark
 
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“Not a real farmer” farmer
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I think the amish welding shop would build a ballast box for around 700.

I have my big flail mower. Weighs 3,000lbs. Would be annoying having it stick up back there, but it's "free" ballast.
 

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55 gallon barrel. put a piece of angle iron upside down across the barrel just above halfway (through the center). The angle iron is so that you can weld pins to it to hook to lift arms after it has been filled with concrete. Work good. Got one. My instructions are probably clear as mud.
 

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An ounce of doing is worth a pound of talk
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How about taking a peace of culvert put a rod in the center to attach to the three point and fill with concrete. Somewhere today I seen that very setup on the net here somewhere. $300 for a yard of concrete sounds way high to me. Here it is about $112 per yard.
 

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Jumbo concrete block from a cement plant fast and cheap just have to come up with a way to secure it. Around here they use them to add weight packing bunkers and other jobs where you need to add weight. and you can get a half block if that is enough weight.
 

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“Not a real farmer” farmer
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
How about taking a peace of culvert put a rod in the center to attach to the three point and fill with concrete. Somewhere today I seen that very setup on the net here somewhere. $300 for a yard of concrete sounds way high to me. Here it is about $112 per yard.
Thats about all it is here, too. But there's a delivery charge of about $125.
 

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One question and one suggestion. I've always been told that tire fluid level should be above the top of the rim to prevent what you're describing, even in slow speed (or stopping) conditions so I wonder how much they'd surge at speed if they're filled to that above-rim level.

And similar theme as the others have suggested regarding using scrap steel as cheap, heavy weight but what if you called Keiter's and asked about oddball combine weights? Maybe buy a pile that are all the same (but unpopular) for a reasonable price and then make a bracket for them.
 

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What else do you use the tractor for? Knowing that would help me decide where i would put the weight if it was mine.
1. Front Pottinger mower for hay
2. Pull type manure spreader for mushroom soil spreading
3. 15' batwing mower for mowing conservancy lands.

I only need the rear ballast when the front mower is n. That's why I was thinking removable 3 point hitch ballast.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
One question and one suggestion. I've always been told that tire fluid level should be above the top of the rim to prevent what you're describing, even in slow speed (or stopping) conditions so I wonder how much they'd surge at speed if they're filled to that above-rim level.
And similar theme as the others have suggested regarding using scrap steel as cheap, heavy weight but what if you called Keiter's and asked about oddball combine weights? Maybe buy a pile that are all the same (but unpopular) for a reasonable price and then make a bracket for them.
Martins were the ones that told me about it. I had heard about it once before. I wish it wasn't true because filling the rear tires would be my favorite way to get this done.
 

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Hay Master (Supposedly)
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1. Front Pottinger mower for hay
2. Pull type manure spreader for mushroom soil spreading
3. 15' batwing mower for mowing conservancy lands.

I only need the rear ballast when the front mower is n. That's why I was thinking removable 3 point hitch ballast.
Definitely go for a 3 point package. Weight on the back with the Pottinger, on the front with the manure spreader, and off with the batwing.

I am not a fan of fluid in the tires.
 

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Foam filled and tou will never get a flat. And when the tire weads out they cut it off, cut the foam and install it in a new tire. We use it in all our forestry equipment. Initial cost is pricey, but well worth the piece of mind. And it goes down the road nicely too.
 

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Foam filled and tou will never get a flat. And when the tire weads out they cut it off, cut the foam and install it in a new tire. We use it in all our forestry equipment. Initial cost is pricey, but well worth the piece of mind. And it goes down the road nicely too.
At 40mph? That seems unlikely. And he could probably buy weight cheaper elsewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
There are guys around that make the big concrete block 3 point hitch counter weights for the big trench packer tractors. They look nice and professional and are BIG. Maybe talk to someone at Hoober in sales or service. Someone knows who makes them...
That would be great. I don't know who makes them. if you know anyone who does, can you pass contact info to me? Need to get this done quick.
 
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