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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am finally getting around to working on the 1209, and got it hooked to the tractor, but am a bit concerned about the PTO shaft tractor to main shaft section. There is only about 2" of shaft inside the outer shaft, and noticed it looks like it has a crack, with a lot of slop, so that shaft will need to be replaced, however, that 2" concerns me, is it supposed to be that short? Is it a standard size where I can get a longer inner shaft for the tractor side?

There is NO information in the manual on how much shaft should be inside the outer shaft like I find on my other OM for PTO implements, from what I remember there should be a minimum of 4".

Do I need to use a JD shaft, or can something from one of the farm stores work?
 

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You're correct telescoping pto shafts should have more than 2'' overlap. I think 6''-8'' overlap will be more realistic but I'll need to look for correct specifications. The rectangular female sleeves can be purchased & replaced on the tubing. When replacing one needs to have opposing u-joints in phase(time)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Wow, it is REALLY short. That was in transport mode!! I moved to cutting mode and the shaft fell out of the sleeve! So I finally found the correct replacement after a couple hours searching. It is a Series 35 PTO based on the U-Joint. The cap is 1 1/4" and width is 3 7/32" based on the JD part number lookup. I found I can get a 14003560 Weasler 35 series shaft tractor side yoke, shaft and sleeve, no implement yoke, and reuse the 6 hex shaft clamp on.

Now just trying to find one in stock. All I really need is the female end, 24" but can't find one anywhere, so this is the next best thing. There are plenty of the male ends available everywhere. The sleeve is cracked, has to be replaced.

Looks like my two big expenses on this will be the sickle bar and the front PTO, so far everything else looks OK. Hydraulics are working good, needs slime in one tire, and everything else feels good, but wont know 100% until I can power it up.
 

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Why not just go to a place that builds pto shafts and get a section the length you need and attach it to your yoke? Don’t have to worry about a specific part being in stock that way.
 

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Might be a dumb question but could you slide the drawbar in and gain a few inches.
Tractor drawbar for 540 rpm pto should be set so distance beteen end of tractor pto shaft & center of hole in tractor drawbar is 14'' when utilizing EA hitch adapter. NO exceptions. Then telescoping pto shafts should have no to minimal vibration during turning corners dependent on wear in shaft telecoping areas.
 

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Now just trying to find one in stock. All I really need is the female end, 24" but can't find one anywhere, so this is the next best thing. There are plenty of the male ends available everywhere. The sleeve is cracked, has to be replaced.
Please post a photo of part you're needing. As I previously stated female weld on sleeves are available to purchaser for repairs of worn pto shafts. Shown in photo below is a a female repair slip joint that are offered in different female sizes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I found the parts I need to make a new PTO, found the sleeve and shaft and tractor end yoke with the ujoints and also the shields, for a few hundred less than the assembled one. What surprises me is the sleeve is only 18 1/2" end to center of joint, should be at least 24". If I subtract the EA hitch length, 14" to PTO to pin then the shaft is within specs, or close to it, so my guess is the PO ran without the EA hitch, and the yokes are a bit beat up to go with that assessment.

Natural material Cylinder Tints and shades Artifact Metal


I worked until 10 or so last night getting the sickle bar out. A few of the segments were not square and were binding up with the guards. I wanted to get the bar out to verify which type since the serial number plate had corroded off and is missing, but it is a post serial change bar. Pretty sure the guards should be removed before the bar comes out easily, but I haven't had time to powerwash the thing to get the crud out and I need an impact to loosen all the bolts, need to get a longer air hose, what I have didn't reach. Anyway I now know what I need so I can get it all purchased and ready to reassemble. I want to run it up to make sure everything else is as good as it appears, and only the bar and guards need to be replaced.


Then I have to learn how to use it.
 

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ACDll
You do understand that equipment manufacturers utilized round tubes welded to u-joint yoke then welded to sleeves similar to photo I posted to help make each half of telesoping shafts the coprrect lengths. U-jpoints will last a lot longer with less vibration in turns if telesoping shafts are correct lengths & equal angle hitch adapter is utilized & is attached to drawbar at correct deminsion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yeah, I do understand that, which is why I built an EA and didn't attempt to do what the PO may have done, from the looks of that sleeve, it was run with less than 4" of shaft inside of it, and with the EA hooked up at the correct dimensions there was less than an inch of shaft in the tube, it actually fell out when I pushed on it. This is not my first PTO driven implement, been running finish mowers, tiller and rough cuts for 20 years now. I knew when posting I will have to replace the PTO shaft, but replace it with what was the question.

When in cutting mode the distance from groove in PTO to groove in implement input is 46 1/4" that is the longest distance, so that will be from the clamping bolt on the mower to the ball locks on the PTO yoke. I haven't found the shortest distance yet, but think it will be in transport mode in a turn position.

BTW there are no places local to me that can repair PTO, checked with my dealer this morning. They were happy to try to sell me a new one for $1200, and would take 4-6 weeks to get one.
 

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I could not determine from your previous replies that you had 20 yrs experience operating pto driven equipment. Farm implement shaft repairs don't require the expertise or balancing such as automobile shafts that operate at much higher rpm's. Some member or I can walk you through rebuilding your old shaft. I've repaired several pto shafts since I was 1st employed a JD dealership in 1965. If you attach cutter to tractor drawbar utilizing EA hitch adapter then turn tractor 90° to cutter with pto telescoping parts attached to tractor pto & cutter pto input shaft in front of carrier brg then the female sleeve should be 3 or 4'' from the yoke that solid rectangular shaft attaches to This method will give you the lontgest round tube for the repair that give maximum insertion of the telescoping components.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I could not determine from your previous replies that you had 20 yrs experience operating pto driven equipment. Farm implement shaft repairs don't require the expertise or balancing such as automobile shafts that operate at much higher rpm's. Some member or I can walk you through rebuilding your old shaft. I've repaired several pto shafts since I was 1st employed a JD dealership in 1965. If you attach cutter to tractor drawbar utilizing EA hitch adapter then turn tractor 90° to cutter with pto telescoping parts attached to tractor pto & cutter pto input shaft in front of carrier brg then the female sleeve should be 3 or 4'' from the yoke that solid rectangular shaft attaches to This method will give you the lontgest round tube for the repair that give maximum insertion of the telescoping components.
I will do that. The OE one is done for, the yokes are so beat up that I can't get the U-joints out, so replacing all but the 1 1/4 Hex end yoke. That one I can take a grinding wheel to so the bearing cap will come off. They are moving ok, the others at least one cap is seized in each yoke. The parts will arrive tomorrow and by Thursday I should have them all ready to connect.

Now off to find the best pricing for guards and sickle bar.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I got the parts today, was hoping they would be not too long, since the length is not posted, but turns out it is 9" too long. From my prelim measurements it needs to be 30" center cap to center cap. Not an issue with the shaft, can cut 7 1/2" off that no problem, the sleeve though, I guess I would have to cut 9" off the tube, and weld it back together. The good news is it is the correct size, I must have measured the shaft wrong, dyslexia can be a bitch as the shaft is 1 3/16" not 1 5/16". SMDH. IOW I could get away with just replacing the shaft end, but that sleeve being cracked, and the cap not budging in the yoke, it needs replacement.

I did find the correct part number for an exact fit, but there are none to be found. After getting the one I have now, I was able to look up the company and find the correct size, 11003525, 24" center cap to sleeve end.

I measured from the yoke on the PTO to the yoke on the cutter, and minimum length is 31", anything longer will bind on a turn. Maximum is 34" This is in cutting mode, its a bit tighter in transport, so will measure again before I start cutting it up. It's just a PITA to hook the mower up, move it around to measure left right center, then move to transport and do the same because I don't have a rope to pull the pin yet! I tried doing it during lunch but ran out of time.

It also has the wrong type jack on it, needs a side crank, but has a top crank and I keep hitting the bearing mount with my knuckles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Going to draw a line end to end so that when I cut out the section I can put it back the way it came. That should keep everything aligned. It's a two piece shaft and square so the opposing end can go in either way. Hooking it to the tractor is when I need to make sure the u-joints are in time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Well that was a lot easier than I thought. The tube has a weld seam on it, so I just used that to align it back to factory. The trickiest part of course is making sure the ends were squared so the tube is straight.

The HARDEST part was what I thought would be the easiest1 That shaft is some HARD ass metal, it ate up 5 blades and needed to dig out the plasma cutter to chew into it. I finally got it cut, the OEM yoke is installed, just have to cut the guard and install it and its ready to go to work. I took a bunch of measurements, right turn, left turn straight, in transport, both cutting positions and determined the shortest distance and the longest distance and cut it to size. Shortest distance is 30 1/4" so I made it 29 1/4", and that is on a hard right turn, something I doubt I would be doing with it in operation.


When you say in phase, you mean the main PTO shaft has both ends aligned with each other, correct? Thats where my other PTO shafts align, they have the Italian tri point and can only go together one way.
 

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Congratulations. Yes phase of u-joints is when opposing u-joint caps when assembled in the yokes are in line with each other.
Go back to dealership & rub it in how easy it was to build your shaft.
Also measuring when telesoping shafts are attached when cutter & tractor are in virually a straight line is really required because that will take care of itself with the measurement with drawbar/cutter tongue in 90° turn IE that the longest each driveshaft half can be to no bind in a turn.
 
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