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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
BC5070 Recent knotter rebuild. New bill hook, knife arm, worm pinion, twine disc assembly, needles, ect. One side was having difficulty tying so we rebuilt the entire assembly over the winter and set to specs. Now the dilemma > the side that was perfect the year before is now losing the knot. It knots perfect most of the time but fails randomly with the twine pulled through the knot as if over stressed. Bail density has been lowered. and that helps but bales are a bit loose. I tightened the twine disc tension 1/4 turn at a time and at a certain point it got real bad so we loosened it back up to about the same as the good side.
Baler s in good condition with maybe 50 to 100 thousand bales with good maintenance.
 

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Could you post pictures of the failed knots?
If you have the owners manual, there should be a section in Maintenance called “Systematic Knotter Adjustment” or something like that. If you had everything apart the best thing you can do is go through that systematic adjustment procedure.
 
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Go thru the knotter adjustments as said above. On our big square baler the one that was giving us trouble we have loosened the twine disk slightly and it has seemed to help. still not perfect though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I noticed today the twine disc has taken a "set" or moved to a more open "U".. Going to reset it back to where it's partially closed about a 1/8" over lap on the side... My way of thinking is the twine disc needs some run time to settle in. Will let you know on the next bale run in a week or so. The twine is not cutting as clean as I like... New blades have not helped. New blades are really not that sharp will try diamond honing a few and see if that helps there as well. Have tried three new sets. I honed one on 400 grit sand paper and it performed better but still not what I want to see. I'll work on getting a picture up in few days.
 

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Twine knifes need to be literal razor sharp.

Check what the book spec is on twine disc timing. I do know that twine disc timing is fairly critical. Two things to keep in mind about getting twine disc timing dead on: 1) there needs to be twine in the holder to get the timing adjusted correctly; 2) make sure to take up the backlash in the gears that drive the twine disc before checking the timing.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Set the twine disc as far right as spec. Left side worked flawless so I left it alone. Tried it again and every 4th bale or so the right knot would come apart. Book said to tighten tension screw on the twine disc. That never worked so we decided to back it way off. BAM! The thing started working Must have been something about that new twine disc that was screwing things up... Ran 1,050 bales through it that afternoon and it did not miss one knot. Thanks for the help. Oh yea. The tension on the hydraulic bale squeezer would not back off/ The shaft connected to the hydraulic cylinder was rusted into the plastic bushings. Little oil and a lot elbow grease fixed that.
 

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That never worked so we decided to back it way off. BAM! The thing started working Must have been something about that new twine disc that was screwing things up... Ran 1,050 bales through it that afternoon and it did not miss one knot.
OK. Now I understand better what was happening with your knots. The tail of the knot was too short and allowed the knot to roll apart when the tension of the bale hit it. The tighter the twine holder is, the shorter the knot tail will be. The looser the twine holder it, the longer the tail will be, but if the holder is too loose as some point the twine will begin pulling out of the holder at times and you will miss a knot on that twine and the twine that was supposed to be there will be too short to make it around the bale. Best practice is to study the tail length of the knots on bales that have exited the bale chamber and adjust the twine holder tension 1/6 of a turn at a time of the bolt that applies tension to the holder spring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hey your info helped a bunch. I always wondered what made the tails long or short... Actually one tail would be a bit short when a knot was tied. usually when I had a lot of pressure on the bale. The tensioners were never moved on the orginal set. Like 75 to 100 thousand bales I would guess. Right now the tails are longer than original and seem to be about 1/2" to 3/4" long and I like it there. Ever need diesel fuel injection help PM me. The tail did look like it rolled apart because it was curly.
 

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Good info . I never heard it explained like this. I have the same baler with about 50,000 bales on it so I am very interested in repairs and fixes for these balers. Thanks for sharing!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Good info . I never heard it explained like this. I have the same baler with about 50,000 bales on it so I am very interested in repairs and fixes for these balers. Thanks for sharing!!
With 50,000 bales I would replace the pick up reel cam rollers.. They need replacement every now and then and if they fail $$ damage can occur. Easier to repair if you pull the belt off so it's easy to turn.... The belt is special on the baler,. keep it in good shape and OEM> The tension on the spring should be kept in spec. It's designed to slip... Over tighten and it will make banana bales. Seems when the chamber gets packed full it slips so both sides get the same amount. Hand hone the new twine blades. They are not sharp
 

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What is the part number on those cam follower bearings?
 

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I replaced the belt last Winter. It was cracked and near failure. I will check into the pickup reel cam rollers. I would not have thought about replacing them until other maintenance was necessary.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·

The reel cam roller bearing PN is 40714 and you'll need six. Discard the loc-nut as it is too hard to put on. This can also be fitted to other places on the baler with a little work. Seems they came two to the pack, please verify that fact when ordering. Seems one failed after about 4 years of service and the reel came close to getting torn up when the bearing came apart. So we replace it them every three years now.
 

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I am wondering if it is possible to use the latest round baler pickup cam follower bearing in the small balers? I wonder if the small baler cam follower bearing is the same as the old style round baler cam follower bearing. They were not real long lived either. Then NH offered a much better cam follower bearing in the Roll-belt series that was compatible with all the BR round balers and that follower bearing has much better durability. Also, that very same bearing can be obtained from Shoup for considerably less than NH wants.
 
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