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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm finally making progress on rebuilding the wobble box for my 467 Haybine. I'm nearly done, but screwed up on reassembling the bearings on the yoke. It appears the cone bearings need to be installed THRU the yoke with the wobble hub in place, rather than pressed on the hub beforehand. Oops.

Does anyone have any advice on the proper way/procedure to install these bearings? (refer to items 17-20 in the attached parts drawing).

I should note that when I took the wobble box apart (or at least what was left of it after a "rapid unplanned disassembly" occurred two years ago), these bearings were in good shape and if the yoke hadn't gotten mangled beyond what I was willing to attempt to repair I would have left it alone. The bottom "pivot" bearing is what failed, and by the time I noticed it had beat itself to death...
 

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As you have found out the center hub needs to be in the yoke before the bearings are installed. I did not look up the part numbers, but is probably the same as later mowers. I use a 3/4” socket to push against the bearing center race when pressing the bearing on. If replacing the bearings while the wobble drive is still on the machine, I just drive against the socket.

When assembling the hub and yoke assembly on the wobble shaft, do not use the nut to push the outer bearings onto the wobble shaft. Take a pipe spacer and drive against the washer next to the bearing until the bearing preload feels right. Then run the nut up tight against the washer. The outer bearing needs to be a press fit on the wobble shaft, so do not file the shaft down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Those bearings are a tight fit on the yoke! I got it back together, just need some new hardware to put it back in the machine. When I put the hub on the wobble shaft, I basically treated it like a wheel bearing on a trailer - tightened the nut until it would not go more, then backed off just enough I could get the cotter pin through the nut. Only difference is I tighten trailer bearings to a torque spec, this was done entirely by feel. Everything is snug, with no play, and turns smoothly with what seems to be an appropriate amount of resistance for all new parts, bearings, races, and grease.

Guess we'll find out how I did when I do some mowing.

Thanks for the tips!

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Anyone have any suggestions for getting the belt on to the drive pulley? I have the wobble box and new belt back in the machine. That was fun…
 

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Swing Oak, did you bother replacing the bushing the knife head bolt goes through (#5)?
Helps to have a second person or wood stock etc to hold mounting bolts in place.
 

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Does the drive belt actually fit under there? I have a NH1495 that I am trying to replace the wobble box. It still has the belt on. I had that bottom connector loose and the spacer shim out but it didn't seem like there was enough room to get the belt through.
 

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Maybe you already spun the pivot bearing 180* after taking shim out. Then rotate belt sheave till it looks like you've got the most room. It's still a tight fit.
 

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Maybe you already spun the pivot bearing 180* after taking shim out. Then rotate belt sheave till it looks like you've got the most room. It's still a tight fit.
Try again today. Just didn't know if I had to take other caps off to loosen fit.
 

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Maybe you already spun the pivot bearing 180* after taking shim out. Then rotate belt sheave till it looks like you've got the most room. It's still a tight fit.
It DOES work. Had to spin the bottom triangle pivot plate around and that made enough room to swivel up and get the belt through.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Swing Oak, did you bother replacing the bushing the knife head bolt goes through (#5)?
Helps to have a second person or wood stock etc to hold mounting bolts in place.
I had to replace the yoke, and it came with a new bushing already in it. You can see it in the photo I posted earlier.
 
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