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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
See photo. Knotter cast metal broke and the mounting bracket bent.
I think it was due to the spring breaking that maintains tension on the knotter.
First - what do you think caused this, so I can avoid doing it in the future.

Next - what part do I need to fix it? I am guessing a complete knotter assembly. Forum members, please walk me through this fix. I have a backup baler, so I have a little time (I hope, Lord willing)

Thanks!

90656
 

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The most common cause for knotter frame breakage is too much knotter stack end play. To see if that is what caused the problem, look at the two billhooks, they should both be in the same position, pointing the same direction.

If you baled up some foreign material the needle could have been deflected and caught the frame. Also look at the twine finger lever to see if the lever is bent.

The spring breakage should not have anything to do with the knotter frame breaking unless the spring deflected the needle which is kind of unlikely. I would think that if either of the two last things happened the needle would also have a broken tip.
 

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You shouldn’t need a complete knotter assy. Just the frame should should suffice. mike10 can probably offer more direction there. If you do opt to just replace the frame, and mike10 doesn’t have a tutorial on disassembling and reassembling the knotter, I can walk you through most of it, with pictures.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thank you, Mike10 and gearclash. let me check the things you mentioned above and I will post back once I determine that I want to take on this project myself. I appreciate your replies.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
New picture...left is broken, right is not. Do you see anything more, now that I showed both? There is a spring on the right, but not on the left. On the knotter near where it is attached to the shaft.
I probably won't use the right terms.

The part that broke is highlighted in red in the parts diagram below (I think). Are you saying I only need Part #30, and not the whole assembly? That would make sense. Those are $300 new. Should I just go ahead and buy a new one, or is there a place I can get this part used?

Another question - see where the frame is bent where the knotter is attached at the bottom with a bolt. Can that be bent back exactly where it needs to be? Is that a very particular measurement, that has to be put back exactly in the same place?

Thanks guys. Great start to a journey that I hope will have a happy ending.

90666



90667
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
New information. I went out to clean out the bale chute to get ready for the repair, and I found a piece of the knotter in the next bale.

90669
 

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There is only one spring at the location you mentioned. The spring is to return the twine fingers to the home position. Even though there is a hole in the left plate of the twine finger lever only one spring is needed. Two springs will do nothing for you.

The mounting tab can be bent back without precise measurements. It just needs to be close enough to the knotter frame to pin the frame to the tab. I like to use pins and clips to attach the knotter frames to the mounting tabs. 710230 pins and 216698 clips.

When just replacing the knotter frame, the new knotter frame will have a hardened ramp for the bill hook roller to roll on. It is recommended to use a bill hook with a hardened roller in the new frame. In your situation, and unless you have flat spots on your existing bill hook roller, I would use what you have.

When changing the frame, and to avoid some work, remove the pinion gear from the shaft that drives the twine disc. Do not remove the worm gear at the bottom of the shaft. Once the pinion is removed the shaft and worm gear can be slid out of the frame. When you install the shaft back into the new frame all you will need to do is turn the worm gear until the twine disc slot is in the correct position and the pin holes line up. I hate timing twine discs so this should save you some time unless the disc was already out of time.

I have seen that type of failure where the mounting tab is bent over rarely and have been trying to remember what the problem was that caused it. I still think something deflected the needle and the needle caught the knotter frame. If I remember right it also broke the tip of the needle off. .
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Great instructions, Mike10. Did you see the new picture I posted? I wonder if I now need a complete knotter assembly. Is that part that fell off broken, or can I still use it? Thanks much!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
OK. I picked up a full knotter assembly today from a baler salvage yard. Can you walk me through how to replace the left knotter (looking from the back of the baler to the front)? I am hoping I can pull many of the parts off the shaft in bunches, without having to dismantle everything. Thanks!
 

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Starting on the right side of the baler, remove the shield, loosen the clamp bolt on the arm and remove the center bolt. Disconnect the yoke at the end of the rod from the needle yoke. Tap off the arm. Remove the bolts on the right side knotter mount and loosen but do not remove the left side knotter mounting bolts. This will allow you to tip the knotter shaft up on the right side to slide the parts off. From there it is just a matter of removing and laying out the parts in the order they came off. Just put everything back in the order you removed the parts. The knotter stack endplay will need to be shimmed before the arm clamp bolt is tightened. You should find that procedure in my pinned thread.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The knotter I need to replace is the left side knotter. Do I still start from the right side and work left? Thanks a bunch.
 

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Yes, start on the right side. Too much extra work to start on the left side, timing, setting the clutch on the shaft at the right distance, the Twine finger cam may be loctited to the shaft. Besides, you will need to have the right side loose to shim the knotter stack. You may also find you may not get the parts back on and shimmed like the way you took it apart because things move.

One other thing I did not mention on starting on the right side is you will need to pull the cotter pin on the twine finger lever and slide the lever out of the left mounting plate. With the lever in place the left mounting bracket can not tilt enough to slide the components off the right side. The large cam gears will need to be rotated to the low side to clear the right stationary mount.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks again, Mike10. Those are very clear instructions. I looked for instructions on knotter assembly replacement in your pinned thread, and couldn't find it. Can you point me to that, please?

Thank you
 

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I do not have any on the replacement, I just mentioned them for the knotter stack end play adjustment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I was able to buy a set of used knotters on the shaft in tact from a NH 276 baler. Would you advise that I just install this whole set (knotters and shaft)? Seems like that may be the mechanically the easiest, but wanted your thoughts on any downside I am not thinking about.
 
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