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2017 John Deere 6130R, John Deere 1380 Haybine, Arvin Rotary Rake, Hesston 565a Round Baler
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello Everyone, I hate that my first thread is a please help me thread but I’m at a loss as to where to find the culprit.

So here’s the scenario, I buy the baler and hook it to the tractor and hit the field, everything goes good but the monitor isn’t telling me to go right or left so I use the 10 second rule to switch sides and I get my first bale filled, I press the auto button and the twine arms go out but then they stay out, and stay out, and stay out some more, I eventually go to manual mode and bring the twine arms back in and do the rest manually and out pops my bale, I go ahead and pop out 5 more bales the same way (manually) without issues then the first big issue starts the twine arms won’t go out even in manual mode, I keep pressing the button but nothing happens, I reset everything and still nothing happens then suddenly they start to move and I get the bale tied finally and dumped out.

I shut down and inspect everything and see nothing sticking out at me that could be wrong except they hydraulic fluid in the reservoir is extremely scalding hot. I do a few more bales without issues and then it happens again and the same issue (twine arms won’t extend) and I go through the same steps and eventually it works (almost like I had to shut down and let the baker cool off some before it would work) but this time after it finally gets tied the gate won’t open to let the bale out and I do more fiddling but no success. I shut it down for the night and the next morning I start it up and everything works like nothing was ever wrong (except it still won’t run in auto mode beyond the twine arms extending and it won’t tell me which side needs more hay) until I pop out a few more bales then the issues start up and the same issues (twine arms won’t extend and when they finally do I have to fight to get the door to open then close.

so that’s my adventure with this baler, in a nut shell, the monitor doesn’t tell me which side to fill, the auto mode only extends the twine arm then stops there, manual mode sometimes the twine button won’t wrap the bale and the gate button won’t open the gate. Not sure if it’s relevant but it all happens when the baler is hot so not sure if it’s a hydraulic issue or an electrical issue.

thank you for your patience in this long explanation and if you have any advice on where to start or how to fix it would greatly be appreciative and I will also keep you updated on my endeavour to getting it running again.
 

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Welcome to HayTalk
Sorry I can't help due to my rd baler experience is with JD rd balers. There are some very knowledgeable NH rd baler operators that frequent this site that can help you. Open the link below that's pinned to the top of machinery forum on this site NH repair instructions authored by member MIke10 to see if this section contains solution to your balers malfunctions. I've read on this forum about ferrous dust affecting operation of micro-switches so I suggest the clean micro-switches contact surfaces.
Jim
 

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2017 John Deere 6130R, John Deere 1380 Haybine, Arvin Rotary Rake, Hesston 565a Round Baler
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you Jim for the welcome, like chevytaHOE5674 pointed out the link is for Discbine repair not baler repair. I’m used to operating JD balers where each function was run from the tractors hydraulics and not built into the balers own system (I’ve been tempted where if I can’t get it to work to convert it to being run manually from the tractors hydraulics instead but I want to extinguish all my resources first before going that route).
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
PPL78
Although for different brand link covers repair on several more types of NH implements than disc cutter
Thank you for pointing that out Jim, I will take a further in-depth look
 

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Did you figure it out? I have the same baler I just picked up but haven’t tried it out yet. After reading the owners manual and the manual for the net wrap operation I can see where maybe your problem is in the sequencing . Does your baler have a auto sequencing box on the baler? I believe it should. This, in conjunction with the appropriate bale controller in the tractor keeps the sequencing of all the solenoids timed properly. There are multiple steps to take to align the timing sequences of the solenoids. I highly suggest downloading the manuals from Agcopubs.com. Very helpful. Lots of knobs need to be turned and adjusted if you are following the steps as described. If that doesn’t work then switch to manual mode. If manual mode isn’t working then check for voltage loss on each solenoid to make sure they are working. Solenoids get stuck or disconnected (dang mice!). Taping on the solenoids sometimes is all you need to do to free them up. I might also suggest changing the hydraulic fluid and the hydraulic filter . Could have a restriction leading to elevated temps of the fluid and loss of pressure around the seals ( hotter fluids usually increase leakage around seals).
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hello everyone, just an update, so I had the baler taken into the dealership to get done and it now works after about $2200cdn worth of work. So the plate that rotates for the twine wrap that has bumps to activate the solenoid telling the baler where it’s at in the wrapping process was bent so the solenoid didn’t know where it was in the wrapping process causing the process to halt when the arms were fully extended.

The bale fill sensors that tell me which way to go to fill equally were both malfunctioning (apparently it’s a common issue cause the sensors are exposed to the elements and corrode easy, but are also expensive to replace)

The final thing with the baler functions randomly stop working is cause there is a valve on the side above the hydraulic tank that when open the fluid free flows and the belts stay loose and things over heat, and once closed the belts get tight and the bales are formed properly and the fluid runs cooler cause it’s not free flowing through everything.

That’s the run down of the issues and when tested in the shop it ran perfectly over and over again in auto wrap mode but the final test will be in a couple months when it’s (fingers crossed) time to do the hay here.
 

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Man you must live pretty far north! Will have 3 cutting by then. By the time you cut your first my grass will be burned up from the heat. I will probably keep you on standby to work through some of my baler issues. Not a lot of us using this baler any more. I paid $4000 usd for mine so I figure I’ll need to spend a few thousand more to get her in top shape. Thanks for mentioning the valve by the tank. That valve is useful to open if you need to change a belt or repair a belt …takes the tension off…just have to remember to close it!

Where are the bale fill sensors located?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I live in central Alberta, Canada, this year has been super dry except this week where we got 150+ mm of rain and counting. We typically need this rain in April to get a good first cut hay crop so it’s coming a little late. We usually typically only get 1 cut/year of hay and some years if we are lucky we can get 2 cuts in a year.

yes that’s typically what the valve is used for and apparently the previous owner opened it so the belts handle the transport easier but didn’t mention he had it open and of course I had no idea having never used this baler before.

The sensors are located on the bale door, there is 1 white censor on each side and located on the top of the door connected to the outer belts (they stick out like a sore thumb on the red baler), as the belts move and tighten up they move along te sensor like a rhiostat (sorry for the bad spelling) and it tells the monitor how much is on each side and how full the chamber is.

Another place to keep an eye on is the wires going to that sensor running along the top of the baler, they are prone to breakage and mice getting to them as they are very exposed and after baling if you don’t clean the area a perfect hiding spot for mice to nest.
 

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I live in central Alberta, Canada, this year has been super dry except this week where we got 150+ mm of rain and counting. We typically need this rain in April to get a good first cut hay crop so it’s coming a little late. We usually typically only get 1 cut/year of hay and some years if we are lucky we can get 2 cuts in a year.

yes that’s typically what the valve is used for and apparently the previous owner opened it so the belts handle the transport easier but didn’t mention he had it open and of course I had no idea having never used this baler before.

The sensors are located on the bale door, there is 1 white censor on each side and located on the top of the door connected to the outer belts (they stick out like a sore thumb on the red baler), as the belts move and tighten up they move along te sensor like a rhiostat (sorry for the bad spelling) and it tells the monitor how much is on each side and how full the chamber is.

Another place to keep an eye on is the wires going to that sensor running along the top of the baler, they are prone to breakage and mice getting to them as they are very exposed and after baling if you don’t clean the area a perfect hiding spot for mice to nest.
Never responded thanking you. My house burned down right after the last post. Lost everything. Been a rough few months here in Texas, especially with the record breaking heat.

I did replace a belt on my baler for the first time and that was a lot of fun. Will be replacing a few more over the next month. Hoping to cut again at the en of Aug or early September. Just hoping and praying for some rain soon!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Never responded thanking you. My house burned down right after the last post. Lost everything. Been a rough few months here in Texas, especially with the record breaking heat.

I did replace a belt on my baler for the first time and that was a lot of fun. Will be replacing a few more over the next month. Hoping to cut again at the en of Aug or early September. Just hoping and praying for some rain soon!
oh no, my sympathies got out to you and your family, I hope you can get back on your feet fast and soon. It’s been very wet and stormy here, I still have first cut on the ground trying to get it to dry up enough to bale. It’s not unusual here to leave hay laying on the ground for a couple weeks to get it to dry properly cause the window closes to get it in and it doesn’t dry fast enough (high heat but also high humidity and usually at the most 4 days of that before it rains at the best) got a stretch coming up in 2 days where it says 6 days of no rain but high humidity so I’m Hoping I can rake it and get it dry enough to bale then. Belt replacements although not complicated does cost a lot $800 cdn per belt (about $620 usd) and times that with 8 belts that’s pretty costly.
 

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oh no, my sympathies got out to you and your family, I hope you can get back on your feet fast and soon. It’s been very wet and stormy here, I still have first cut on the ground trying to get it to dry up enough to bale. It’s not unusual here to leave hay laying on the ground for a couple weeks to get it to dry properly cause the window closes to get it in and it doesn’t dry fast enough (high heat but also high humidity and usually at the most 4 days of that before it rains at the best) got a stretch coming up in 2 days where it says 6 days of no rain but high humidity so I’m Hoping I can rake it and get it dry enough to bale then. Belt replacements although not complicated does cost a lot $800 cdn per belt (about $620 usd) and times that with 8 belts that’s pretty costly.
I found a place in Tx called America Seed and Belting and they had the belts for $302 with free shipping. the belt arrived in 2 days and it was a perfect fit. Man, if possible would haylage be a good option? Wrap them mup wet? I guess that would require a different baler though?
 
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