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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Is $1650 a decent price for a 77 1209? I just found one about an hour away, top roller looks good, no picture of the bottom one though. Of course, if the WB has cracks or slop, then not worth $500.

 

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Looks like it could be ok. Hard to tell without seeing more.
Since you’re in my geography, your time for making hay is pretty much done. The days are short and cool, the nights are cold and the dews are heavy. And we’re having a wet fall. And you don’t have a tedder. I’d forget trying to make dry hay here this time of year without one. You’ll end up with a bunch of damp bales and you’ll need to find something to do with it. Again, not talking hypotheticals here.

You only have an acre here you’re talking about. That’s not worth running out and trying to grab up machinery quickly. Just let it stand, or brush hog it and let it decompose back into the ground. It will be packed down onto the ground by next spring after snow laying on it all winter and won’t be an issue for you, but will be some organic matter you kept on the field.

Small guys like us have to rely on used equipment because we can’t justify the expense of new. I do expressly stay away from repainted equipment and like to see them in their work clothes. But I do go by probabilities. A machine that looks like it’s been well-kept and carefully used is going to have a higher probability that everything has been maintained well by a careful owner and skilled operator vs one that looks neglected.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I had to check it out, sometimes things call you. Glad I did, it is VERY nice compared to a few others I had looked at for a LOT more money. Just in parts alone I could see getting $1600 for it. The rollers are in really good shape, very few tiny cracks. Everything feels solid. The sheet metal is really good considering it's age. On the drive cover, the front tie is still there, the back is held on by a nut and bolt. Except for a repair on the right side cover, it has not been repainted either, thats it's natural skin, been barn kept. A few teeth need to be replaced, and one bearing is missing from one of the teeth bars, but they threw in the bearing because I asked nicely. I don't trust that one tire will make it 104 miles, but the other is like new. The large idler pulley for the drive belt on the right wiggles a little, but that may or may not be normal, and other than that everything else is tight, well lubed, and in good shape. It was worth the 4 hour drive there and back.

It is exactly what I have been looking for, so I am WELL ahead of the game on these. I have a refund coming from Escrow on my refi, and the amount pays for both the baler and this mower.

Some mud got picked up last time it was used, so thtas what is caked on the roller, they look a lot better in person.

Automotive tire Bumper Wood Automotive exterior Vehicle door


The tire in question.
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The other one
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I have to find a clevis hitch for my receiver, a replacement tire, then plan a day to bring it home. It will be at least a 5 hour drive home, and have to plan the route to avoid any main highways and towns, but it's doable. I measured it, and it is 9' 5" deep and 11'3" wide, so not going to try trailering it, not worth the cost of rental and getting an oversize permit.

As far as a tedder and drill, those I can wait until next year, over the winter I can go over these and get them in top shape for the season, which is one of the reasons I have searched for them now instead of next spring. I have no idea yet when the tractor will arrive anyways, and after doing some research, the drill I am interested in, which I would put to good use for other things as well, is too heavy for the B2410, even with the loader and backhoe weights on the front, so no reason to go looking. I got done what I set out to do initially and thats one I can write off the books on now. Thanks for the help to everyone who responded.
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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Quick question, I am not familiar with the type of hitch it has. It basically looks like a CAT 3 arm on it's side. It is 1 1/8" ID and the only clevise hitches for the truck are 1" diameter. Since it is a 2pt arm on it's side, could I take a Cat 2 pin and bolt it to the reciever in place of the ball and use that to tow with, or be better off with the clevise type and have 1/8" play in the hitch? With this also be how I connect it to the tractor, using a pin and clip?
 

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You could either bolt a Cat 2 pin to the truck hitch or use a sleeve inside the ball to take up the play. Same options with your tractor. Yes, you can run with mismatched pins and holes but it is not ideal because it accelerates wear.

It looks like a decent machine. You might as well have a practice on that acre. Even if the hay does not turn out well, you will have experience operating the equipment and will be able to identify any problems that need fixing.

Roger
 

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All you need is to take a ball out of the hitch, or buy another one and don’t put a ball in it. The hole size doesn’t matter. This is how I do it with everything.
Looks like a nice mower. The green overspray everywhere suggests it’s been repainted.
 

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All you need is to take a ball out of the hitch, or buy another one and don’t put a ball in it. The hole size doesn’t matter. This is how I do it with everything.
Looks like a nice mower. The green overspray everywhere suggests it’s been repainted.
That would work if the mower had a “standard” hitch but he’s going to have to use the category pin with the pivot ball hitch that the mower has. Otherwise, yes, it’s definitely a good idea to have a truck drawbar with just an open hole at the ready.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
I got a 1" to 1 1/8" sleeve on the way, and a clevis type hitch for the receiver. That over spray is from touchups. Someone sprayed some of the rust or bare metal that the paint got rubbed off of. That side cover was also repaired a bit in case you couldn't tell. :) Majority of the paint is factory still.

I did some research and found that a Cat 2 pin that fits in the drawbar would work for connecting to the tractor and set so the pivot is in line with the u-joint. Makes sense now that I look at it. Have to wait until I actually get the tractor to see what the drawbar looks like. If the hole is the usual 3/4" I will need to drill it out to 7/8" to use a Cat 1 threaded cat 2 pin.

BTW anyone have an idea what the hitch weight would be? Somethig tells me using the F150 might not be a good idea since it is rated at 500 pounds TW or the steering gets too light, so more than likely need to take the F350.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Just out of curiosity, I looked up oversize permits, and found the wide loads of Farm Equipment for IL. Looks like since it is 11' wide I would need a wide load banner on the front and rear, red flags on the sides and an amber strobe on the truck, has anyone had to do this? The route I am looking at goes through a couple large towns, one is Ottowa on 23. Its 126 miles and roughly 7 hours from pickup to home. Using Basecamp I set up a route that avoids all of the city sections, but getting across the IL river has me going west about 10 miles, then having to come back east 15, adding an hour to the drive.
Also apparently I need a farm designation on the plates in order to tow the farm equipment legally. It's only $10 to add it, but have to go to a SOS office to process it. Well, there goes more PTO!

I currently hold a Class A CDL from when I drove OTR 30 years ago, so I tend to check rules and regs when doing something other than driving to work. With my luck, some uppity county mounty with a bug up his butt would stop me and check it all. Makes me wonder what the dealers do when they go and pick up farm equipment.
 

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I towed two of my balers from up by Rockford down to my place. Never worried about it granted they're not as wide as your haybine. I would imagine most police in the country would be willing to let you go because I'm sure that's a fairly common sight. It's when you get into the heavier populated areas like Ottawa if you have to cut right through downtown could be the problem
 

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Ok, so it's an equal angle hitch. I've never had any experience with them so don't know anything about it.

Regarding your tongue weight, I pull my 488 with my F150. The tongue of the mower is long so it's not putting excessive weight on your hitch.

Regarding wide load, that only applies to implements that are being hauled on a trailer, not towed on their own tires. You need nothing additional for it, just hook up and pull it. It's an agricultural state, people are pulling farm equipment around all the time. You shouldn't get heckled by any law enforcement.

If bearings are good, you could prob tow it 45 mph safely. If your roads have wide shoulders that makes things easier. I prefer the main roads for this instead of back roads, as there is not a lot of room to get over on back roads and I can still provide half a lane of my own lane on main roads.

You will need to pull over occasionally if a lot of cars are piling up behind you to let them pass.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
I towed two of my balers from up by Rockford down to my place. Never worried about it granted they're not as wide as your haybine. I would imagine most police in the country would be willing to let you go because I'm sure that's a fairly common sight. It's when you get into the heavier populated areas like Ottawa if you have to cut right through downtown could be the problem
Thats the part of the drive that concerns me, having to go through populated areas with lots of traffic, possible parked cars etc.

I downloaded the owners manual and parts manual and am going through it which answers a lot of my questions. The one thing I forgot to measure was the width of the wheels. I wonder if it is possible to push it up the ramps, and then pivot it sideways. Of course if not careful it could be pushed off the trailer too. According to the manual, the weight is 2940 pounds. At one time I had a calculator that could measure what the tongue weight would be based on distance from axle, cg, and known weight. What irks me is I HAVE a Sherline tongue weight scale in my truck and didn't even consider using it when I was there. It's a 5000 pound scale too. I use it to weight my 5th wheel pin before each trip to know how much water I can put in the tank and stay within gross. Knowing the weight of the tongue would let me know if the bucket on the Kubota can lift it enough to pull it off the trailer onto the ramps. I know the new one could do it, but I have no clue when that will come in, all Kubotas are on back order.

The rear cover and windrow shields can be unbolted which will make it narrow enough to fit on an 8'6" flatbed. I'm guessing for transport the hydraulic should be lowered so it sits flat. That could be an issue as I would have to get an adapter hose to connect to the loader hydraulics on the tractor. They are smaller fittings. The dealer would have no problem getting it on the trailer, getting it off the trailer is my only issue so trying to work that out. I can rent an 8 1/2' by 20' Deck over for less than what a replacement tire would cost, then instead of taking 7 hours to get it home, only takes 2 plus time to load and unload. I think the ramps can be moved to the sides too, and if I can get the trailer angled into the ditch, I can get the tow bar connected to the truck and ease it off that way. If I was to get a spare wheel and tire for it, it would cost over $300, and have to wait for it to be delivered before I could go get it.

I am going to look around the area to see if anyone locally has a larger tractor that can be used. If I can trailer it, it's the best and safest option. I used to haul steel and lumber, this is a piece of cake compared to that. Hiring someone to transport it I have the same issue as doing it myself, getting it off the trailer. I will leave the 9 hr 15 m drive as last resort. Need to make some calls in the morning and determine the best method.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Ok, so it's an equal angle hitch. I've never had any experience with them so don't know anything about it.

Regarding your tongue weight, I pull my 488 with my F150. The tongue of the mower is long so it's not putting excessive weight on your hitch.

Regarding wide load, that only applies to implements that are being hauled on a trailer, not towed on their own tires. You need nothing additional for it, just hook up and pull it. It's an agricultural state, people are pulling farm equipment around all the time. You shouldn't get heckled by any law enforcement.

If bearings are good, you could prob tow it 45 mph safely. If your roads have wide shoulders that makes things easier. I prefer the main roads for this instead of back roads, as there is not a lot of room to get over on back roads and I can still provide half a lane of my own lane on main roads.

You will need to pull over occasionally if a lot of cars are piling up behind you to let them pass.
posted together.

The tires are rated for 25 MPH and I just know if I tow at 45 at least one would go BOOM and I would be dead on the side of the road, and even doing 25 I have a feeling it would go boom. Even though it is on the light side of the trailer, it would also be on the shoulder side taking the brunt of the hits from dropping off shoulder. The baler was easy to pull because it was only a little wider than the truck and pretty evenly matched, and if it were a baler, with good tires I would drive it home. The 11' width and having to replace one tire has me thinking of trailering it instead, and it costs less to rent the trailer than for the tire. I wont need to replace the tire if I do that and it would be fine for a few seasons or at least until it stops holding air. I have an attachment on my bucket for moving trailers around and could move the mower with it as long as the weight doesn't exceed the lift on the bucket. I used to move my 28' travel trailer in and out of the barn with it.
 

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You have talked yourself into trailering it. Your reasoning is sound. So trailer it. I trailered a 9 foot discbine last year on a trip of more than 200 miles home. I removed the drawbar and had it lifted onto my trailer with a front loader on the seller's tractor.

Roger
 

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Trailer it, with it loaded sideways, and either get your adapter hose or slip someone a few bucks to help unload it. It really doesn’t have to be all that complicated.
 

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What HiTech said. You're making way too complicated. To travel on a trailer it doesn't need to sit all the way flat, just in road/transport position. There may be a place to bolt or lock it down so the head doesn't bounce, there is on my New Holland. It just bolts the floating head to the frame. But it never made the trip from IL to MI like this. You don't need to worry about hydraulics.

The lift rating on your bucket isn't going to be the issue, it's if your tractor has enough weight to keep from getting tipped and pushed when the haybine hits the ramps. If you're concerned that your loader doesn't have the lifting capacity to lift the tongue, then I think your tractor is too small and light to safely unload. You will need a fairly large and heavy tractor to maintain control while unloading it. I unloaded mine with my 63 hp tractor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
I got it solved for the most part. I will need an adapter hose to connect the the B2410 loader fitting and a 10' hose with the proper female coupler, except I don't know what it is without matching it. I found that I can pull the trailer over to the side of my driveway which sits higher than the rest of the yard and have a set of ramps I can use and pull it off with the truck. I got a couple shipping quotes and they are well over what I can trailer it for several times over. The dealer will help get it on, and I can get it off by myself once home. So If I cant the mower with the right side (facing the back, pto on left) to be even with the edge of the trailer, the rear cover would not be sticking way out? That would sure speed things up. The tow bar is one bolt and a pin to remove, and apparently same with the PTO.

I guess I will know once it is loaded on the flatbed. I have a 3pt drawbar and can use that provided I get the towbar low enough so that I can lift it to remove the dunnage under the shoes. This is what I was considering having to use the loader for. The breakout on the loader is 770 pounds, so if the tongue weighs more than that, it wont lift it. I'm very carefull lifting things after nearly flipping the tractor over, with me standing next to it the first year I got it and was trying to lift a stuck trencher. Now I make sure it is centered.
 

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Look over the skid shoes and the mounting slot. If the slot gets to much wear the shoes will come out.
 

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Way back when I was employed by a JD dealer I had a dedicated receiver hitch extension that had a Cat ll(1-1/8'' dia.) 3 pt draft pin bolted to it for transporting implements with the newer style EA hitch. I still have it stored around somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Turns out renting the trailer was the least expensive solution. I bought a clevis type 2" hitch, and the holes were not aligned. I couldn't pull if it I wanted to. A replacement tire was $200. I did have to buy ramps, but can always find a use for them, so not even considering the cost as part of this. I rented a deck over trailer, 4 chains and binders for $146, drove down there, had it loaded and in under 2 hours was back on the road, and home 2 hours later. Getting it off I took my time, and once I had it set to come down the ramps, did it nice and slow and it came down off the trailer without issues. Had it off in under an hour and got the trailer returned an hour later, so was all done by 3 PM, started ~ 6AM. Fuel costs would have been the same one way or the other so not factored in.

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