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If it's similar to what our Kelly loader used, once they got the gland retainer out they had a another hydraulic cylinder used to pull the one apart that needed repaired.

Does it use seals or packings? I rebuild a lot of our hydraulic cylinders if I have time, but if it has packings I take it to the pro's.

On a few cylinders I've rebuilt they also have a setscrew to keep the gland from spinning. One was painted over and barely found it so look real close.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
If it's similar to what our Kelly loader used, once they got the gland retainer out they had a another hydraulic cylinder used to pull the one apart that needed repaired.

Does it use seals or packings? I rebuild a lot of our hydraulic cylinders if I have time, but if it has packings I take it to the pro's.

On a few cylinders I've rebuilt they also have a setscrew to keep the gland from spinning. One was painted over and barely found it so look real close.
Setscrew doesn't show on the parts book. I will have to look this afternoon. I got the snap ring off and tried to pull and jerk and no movement.
 

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Setscrew doesn't show on the parts book. I will have to look this afternoon. I got the snap ring off and tried to pull and jerk and no movement.
Maybe if you have a slide hammer make an adapter to fit the clevis or eye on the rod?
 

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did you take off one snap ring or 2? You have to take the outside one off, push the end cap up inside the cylinder, then take the snap ring out that is inside there. After that you should be able to pull the whole thing out. Last one i did i had to pound on the eyelet on the end of the shaft with a hammer to get it out. a come-a-long works also. everything has to be pretty sraight in line also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
did you take off one snap ring or 2? You have to take the outside one off, push the end cap up inside the cylinder, then take the snap ring out that is inside there. After that you should be able to pull the whole thing out. Last one i did i had to pound on the eyelet on the end of the shaft with a hammer to get it out. a come-a-long works also. everything has to be pretty sraight in line also.
No, I only took off one snap ring. Another one inside ... that makes sense. I will check it out when I get home today. Thanks
 

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yea, once you push the end cap up inside you will find another snap ring in there. Make sure the packings stay in the order they come out of the bag and they go on the right direction. also take off the hose at the opposite end of the cylinder to let air in when you pull it out. All the oil inside will come out the end so be ready for that.
 

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When you have it all back together, be sure to SLOWLY at idle work the cylinder in and out with no load for a few strokes to bleed the air out. Air in hydraulic cylinders can have the same effect as a diesel engine, when the air is compressed rapidly, it will heat enough to ignite the oil inside, and burn your new seals, they actually call this dieseling. Not as common on smaller equipment, as it is in large earthmoving / mining equipment, but I always bleed the cylinders to be sure.

http://www.insidersecretstohydraulics.com/newsletters/issue01.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
yea, once you push the end cap up inside you will find another snap ring in there. Make sure the packings stay in the order they come out of the bag and they go on the right direction. also take off the hose at the opposite end of the cylinder to let air in when you pull it out. All the oil inside will come out the end so be ready for that.
Thanks, I tried it this afternoon and it went in. I going to go ahead and rebuild the whole thing instead of just the end seals.
 

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There is a plastic spit ring in the kit that is used. Remove the outer snap ring, drive the end cap into cylinder barrel, install plastic ring in grove so internal snap ring does get caught in grove and pull it out. GOOD LUCK. The last ones I tried, throwed in the towel and took them to shop. It took them a full day to rebuild them.
 
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