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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The latch on the hood of my JD 6320 has been broken for awhile and I guess when I would hit bumps in the field it would bounce up and down a little and apparently it was rubbing on the side tube of the condenser and eventually rubbed a small hole that allowed the freon to escape from the ac. I removed the condenser and took it to a shop where they soldered the hole shut and then I took it to the AgPro shop near the house to get the ac system evacuated and refilled. It was a Friday afternoon and they worked me in which was great as I was halfway through baling hay when this happened. When I picked up the tractor I noticed there were drops of oil (ac oil) that looked to be dripping on the concrete underneath where the the tech added freon. I was able to get him to come back out and he messed with the shrader valve but it continued to leak. It was close to closing time so he came back out with a pair of pliers and just tightened the cap down real tight and said that's all he could do and to see what happens. Well I needed the tractor so I took it home to finish baling and the ac put out only slightly cool air. When the tech sent me on my way I believe he told me the shrader valve was not serviceable and I would need to buy the entire line which he said could be expensive because of the labor to replace. Any thoughts? Here in TX you gotta have ac when in the cab and I would like to get it taken care of. Does anyone know if the shrader valve can be replaced? I know ac was working great before this whole fiasco started.
 

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I haven't seen a shrader valve that couldn't be took apart, but if there's one out there then it's a good chance John Deere uses it. Once all the freon is leaked out take the cap off and see if it's threaded if so a valve stem removal tool will usually thread them out. Parts stores might be able to match it up.
 

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If one is not serviceable then JD probably uses it. Anyways, I have a tool to change the insert while the system is still charged.
 

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The Schrader valve is unscrewed and pulled/blown thru the ball valve. The valve is then shut off. Then you unthread the rear portion and remove the valve core, load the new on in and tighten the cap down. Open the ball valve and pass the new core thru it and thread it into the line.

A small amount of charge of vacuum is lost each time because some escapes into the tool, but its a very small amount.
 

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The latch on the hood of my JD 6320 has been broken for awhile and I guess when I would hit bumps in the field it would bounce up and down a little and apparently it was rubbing on the side tube of the condenser and eventually rubbed a small hole that allowed the freon to escape from the ac. I removed the condenser and took it to a shop where they soldered the hole shut and then I took it to the AgPro shop near the house to get the ac system evacuated and refilled. It was a Friday afternoon and they worked me in which was great as I was halfway through baling hay when this happened. When I picked up the tractor I noticed there were drops of oil (ac oil) that looked to be dripping on the concrete underneath where the the tech added freon. I was able to get him to come back out and he messed with the shrader valve but it continued to leak. It was close to closing time so he came back out with a pair of pliers and just tightened the cap down real tight and said that's all he could do and to see what happens. Well I needed the tractor so I took it home to finish baling and the ac put out only slightly cool air. When the tech sent me on my way I believe he told me the shrader valve was not serviceable and I would need to buy the entire line which he said could be expensive because of the labor to replace. Any thoughts? Here in TX you gotta have ac when in the cab and I would like to get it taken care of. Does anyone know if the shrader valve can be replaced? I know ac was working great before this whole fiasco started.
Is the low side charge port at a low point in the system? It seems odd for see oil coming out unless it is overcharged with oil. Do you know how much was added after the condenser was reinstalled? Too much could be part of the lesser cooling after the repair.
The tool works, and you should be able to find the schrader valve at a good auto parts store. Also, check the caps. If they are questionable replace them as well.
I live in TN, so I feel your pain with the A/C not working. A couple of years ago, the compressor fried on a tractor during first cut. We were in a heat wave for that time of the year and temps were near 100°. I had to use the tractor for 3 days with no A/C. NOT fun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Just an update. I had a retired AC guy out to the house and shrader valve was replaceable which he did. He put vacuum on the ac charged it up and now it blows cold air. Not sure why tech at JD said it wasn't replaceable. He has been doing service work there a long time and has always been great with advice. I was late in the afternoon on a Friday though 🤔
 
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