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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A buddy of mine is selling his jd567 baler. He’s a row cropper and ended up with it on a trade deal and is wanting to part with it. Currently I don’t have a bale count or year on it (I’m traveling for work a lot recently) but I have some pics and looked it over. Sprockets and chains have nearly no wear, cylinders don’t have much residue around them (indicating no leaking), and it looks like any damage is cosmetic. Standard pickup non hydraulic lift, twine only, no kicker, monitor and harness (harness was repaired I think it got caught in a driveline). I’m very good with equipment but new to the belt baler world. What are your thoughts on this model, what are things I need to look at before I decide, and what price range am I looking at. Thanks in advance
 

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Price & bale count would be very helpful in assessing baler. I think $5K-$7K would be a place to start. Lack of paint on pickup stripper bands indicates baler isn't a low count baler. There's also several broken pickup teeth just on visible rows. I personally would not want a rd baler without netwrap or push bar. Backing up or circling baler every time one needs to eject gets old fast.

I think twine spacing with JD twin twine arms & ripping twine instead of cutting twine leaves a lot to be desired!!!
 

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My first 467 had 30,000 bales on monitor when I traded it for another 467 to get netwrap attachment. Now that 467 has over 29,600 bales on it. I think 50,000 bales can be accomplished rather easily with proper maintenance especially if not many corn or milo stalks are baled.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for all of the info, I really appreciate it. I work on a research station and they had a 567 when I started and so do a few of the guys I work with, they all love it. I’m going to try to run the machine when I get off the road to check out it. On these balers is there a way to check the belts to see if they are wore out without taking them off and measuring each one?
 

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I've heard that the belts have 3 ridges on them if there's a diamond pattern. 3 is good 2 is getting used and 1 is done. Found a picture online that shows the belt ridges. I'm sure that's not what you were looking for but given the condition of the baler I'm sure those belts are wore down a bit. And I'm thinking its because it's twine only but the twine tubes have quite a cut ground in to them. Not a huge deal to fix but shows the amount of twine that went through it.
Rectangle Grey Font Tints and shades Roof
 

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Wear of ridges on belts is a good method to determine how well belts will aid in starting a bale core. Also look at lacings to determine how thin the areas are where pins hold belt lacings together
 

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Check the back side of the belts also. If they are smooth, they are worn. There should be some texture to the back side. I had old belts (with smooth back sides) on my 335 and was having issues doing baleage when on a slope and the bale was near full (belts would slip and couldn't overcome the friction on the chamber sides). Put on new belts and and it works great. I was down to 2 ridges on the front side of the old belts when I replaced them.
 

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I've never seen texture on backside of bale forming belts on JD rd baler. JD rd baler belt backsides I've seen are nearly as smooth as a baby's bottom side. Granted JD rd balers drive rollers have rubber coatings to help power bale forming belts. Would you please post photo of your belts showing the texture you refer to? Did you get your replacement belts from JD or aftermarket??
 

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That baler is an early 567 and has seen lots of bales. Tension arm springs need replacing, grooves are deep into the twine arms indicative of bale count. Most of the belts are well worn, has the std pickup not the megawide which is a big disappointment in heavy windrows. Front pto shield is missing which usually happens when the cv joint is nearing the end of its life. If it was me i would pass on it, but if it's cheap enough......
 

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carcajou
Very good observation on wear grooves in twine tubes & broken bale tension spring. I don't remember seeing grooves that deep especially in front side of tubes. 5 ft wide balers would have more opportunity for twine tube wear due to the extra foot of travel of twine tubes on every bale that's wrapped with twine. My experience with 5 ft wide balers is much less than with 4 ft wide balers.
 

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If the baler is just for making bales for your own operation, then this baler might work out. If you are wanting to do custom baling, I find most customers want netwrap. In my area a 4x5 bale is the most wanted bale for custom bales. Smaller tractors can pick them up. Two guys can even roll them. 5x6 bales are desired by cow guys but most of them do their own baling. I only keep about 15 rouns bales per year and sell all the rest.

I have never done anything but Megawide pickup/netwrap/push bar with my 467 so I don't know the issues without having these features, but I believe Jim and others on here. I was told to absolutely get the megawide, so I did.

I had broken tension springs on my baler and a bunch of badly worn sprockets and chains. I replaced them all with parts from all states ag at about 1/3 price of JD so that wouldn't scare me off but it will still add about $1,000. Some of those sprockets come off hard.

That's a rusty bunch of pickup bands and my 29,000+ bale count 467 has more paint than those do.

I learned something new about baler belts today. I didn't know about counting the ridges. I bought JD belts though recently because 2 of mine were cracking. Some things I do buy from JD.

Picture doesn't show any lacings but that's where most of my bad issues were on my belts. One belt did not even have a real pin in it. Just a high tensile fence wire fashioned into a pin. I baled a hundred bales with it before I fixed it because I didn't notice it.

If 5 foot baler and twine is what you want, then make him a low offer. Never know.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks for all of your help, I really appreciate it. I’m going to try to run it a bit tomorrow and see what running issues it has. Where are the bale tension springs, I think I missed them
 

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On your picture where you have the door open, it is that big spring running sort of vertically in front of your chain. Mine were broken in 5 places on both sides. Big nut on top can be a bitch to get loose but once you get it, it is easy to replace.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Update: we went and looked at the baler more. Belts run true and splices look decent, if we buy i plan to take all the belts off and measure them. We’ve done this before and starting out that way saves headache in the long run. One of the bale tension springs is broke, plan to replace both and keep the good as a spare. Tires may need attention, but I have a quote on them and they weren’t horrible. Monitor works as it should and the monitor bypass switch works too. 15676 bales on it according to the monitor so not bad. Ran good with no abnormal noise, no bearing heat, and the kicker worked. Offered 7000 for it and two dolly wheel jd rollabars, we will see if they take it. Could be a bad move, but only time will tell. Thank y’all for all of your advice, I really appreciate it.
 

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Based on the pictures, just over 15,000 bales sounds low. I bet the monitor was replaced at some point. That's the case on mine too.

Mega wide I'm sure will be nice. It depends on what rake you plan to use and how you build your windrow. Mine is standard pickup and I really have to weave and crowd the edge to fill in the sides of the bale.

@calico190xt, I'm needing to replace belts this spring before we get busy. What made you want to buy your belts from Mother Deere? I'd bet my paycheck they outsource their belts.
 

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My only reason is a guy I respect said he bought aftermarket and they weren't as good as jd. I also was buying netwrap from JD for the same reason but my son has stopped doing that and we had no issues with the ruralking wrap this past season. You may very well be right about outsourcing but my JD belts have worked well.
 

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Interesting, and will keep it in mind.

I have always heard the Rural King net is much cheaper, but doesnt hold as tight. And you have to put on almost double the wrap to keep the bale together. Cheaper to use the more expensive JD wrap.

Interested to hear your thoughts.
 
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