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I'm trying to get the hang of making nice bales with this machine. Until now, we have used New Idea soft core balers.

My problem is making a level bale. I seemed to figure it out on the last 2 bales yesterday. By accident I think. Not sure how they came out pretty.

Guy I bought it from said to stay out of the red on the pressure gauge. So that how I started, timing a bale before it got full size. Not being satisfied i started taking it further. A few bales in, as soon as the buzzer alarmed, I would start filling the less full side until I got it to the red, then tie. This seemed to work well for me. I wouldn't peg it out past the red, would stop in the red.

I figure these machines were made to run safely to the red on the gauge...surely they were.

Just need some guidance here. Am I asking to stretch our belts by taking it to the red? They really don't seem to get nice and tight until you take them all the way.

Hope this makes some sense.

Rake with a Rollabar. Make full width windows but one side usually has a bit more than the other. This is my problem I know. But just would like to know the correct way to operate this machine. I can make some beautiful soft core bales. And I know this green machine is capable of making some fine bales. Its only made 1300 ish bales its whole life.
 

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Does this baler have converging wheels? I agree to weave back & forth to aid each edge of bale has same amount hay. I like baling a windrow a little wider than baler & the flatter the windrow the easier it is to make a bale that's even on each side
 

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1st off are you using a monitor that is calibrated. Meaning if it says 60 inches when you eject it is 60 with a tape measure. I ran a 458 mega wide for a few years and the last 100 or so bales were lopsided no matter what I did. Long story short I traded for a 460m baled one more day till my new one was delivered upper tension arm snapped on right side cost me about $600. Bright side is while I was fixing it I realized it had been partially broken long enough to rust. Talking with an old timer later he said that was very common on 5 ft diameter balers so it might be worth checking yours.
 

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1st off are you using a monitor that is calibrated. Meaning if it says 60 inches when you eject it is 60 with a tape measure. I ran a 458 mega wide for a few years and the last 100 or so bales were lopsided no matter what I did. Long story short I traded for a 460m baled one more day till my new one was delivered upper tension arm snapped on right side cost me about $600. Bright side is while I was fixing it I realized it had been partially broken long enough to rust. Talking with an old timer later he said that was very common on 5 ft diameter balers so it might be worth checking yours.
Sounds exactly like what happened to mine. That is the reason I got it so cheap. Cost me $1200 for a new - used tension arm and I put it in. Might want to look at the tension arm just outside of the chamber.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Gonna bring this dead thread back to life for a minute.

I have gotten the hand of this baler. The machine doesn't have a monitor. Everything is manual/hydraulic. I think I'm a fan.

Still curious though about taking the bale size gage to the red. I feed it hay til it touches the red, then bale. Am I doing right?

Best adjustment so far was to the twine tensioner springs. Made the bales plenty tight.

Also. How many bales are belts generally good for? And we have a few of the metal stitch/staple dudes that have come loose and the pin is broken partially off. Is this something I can repair without replacing belts?
 

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Belt life is determined by type of storage(inside or outside) & type of hay baled. I replaced belts on my JD 467 @ 20,000 bale count. IIRC my baler at that time had baled close to 1000 stalk(Coirn & Milo) bales & remainder of bales was grass hay. Have you read operators manual for answer to baling up to "just in the red"? On my 467 baler gauge I get very close to red but never enter red zone. Yes belts can be relaced which requires shortening belts a little & use of a special lacing tool.
 
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