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MTB98 - plunger is not all the way to the stationary knife.
Jim - I will check that tomorrow.
The clearance is measured in between the two knives as the pass by each other, like the blades on a pair of scissors. .030 inches (that’s about 1/32”) will need to be measured with a feeler gauge, it’s really close tolerance between them. You’ll want to measure at bottom, middle and top as the knives pass each other.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I took some better pictures this morning. The knives are meeting, and it shows the clearance. I have not measured it, but I know it is way too much. These pictures are from the pickup side of the knives. In the second picture, the end of the red arrow is showing daylight from the bale chute side. You can see that daylight all the way up and down. Looks a bit wider at the top.
Based on this huge gap, how would I go about adjusting it back to spec?

Thanks!

90682


90683
 

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ARE both bridges(key 18) present? I remember selling several bridges that were AWOL many yrs ago back when I was employed at JD dealership.

Evidently you did not comprehend my earlier reply referring to adjusting plungerhead by adjusting bridges(key 15) utilizing bolts(key 18) & adding shims(key 3) to square up knives ?? Correctly adjusting bridges will move PH knife closer to ST knife. Adding shims(key 3) will square up knives.

After viewing your last photo it's easy to determine why your bales are bonded together similar to siamese twins
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Jim, I can confirm that I see one bridge, looking from the front of the baler. See photo. I am not seeing a second one. I may not be looking in the right place. I will read your above post and carefully follow those steps, but right now I would like to make sure both bridges are there. Thank you for your help.

90685
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 · (Edited)
Thank you, Jim. Is the second bridge required to remedy the problem I am having? is there any way I can get by with one, based on that $$$$$$$ price tag? I can spend that, if this will definitely solve my problem.

Update: I am now very clear on the procedure required to bring knives together and to square them up. Thank you for your pertinent advice. This problem will be solved as soon as I can get the necessary parts.
 

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You're very welcome
The bridges were installed at the factory to limit movement of PH in bale case & to correctly solve your balers problem should be in place. As you already know baler will operate without bridge in place.
 

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The cost of a new bridge would have me thinking about finding a parts baler. The second part you need would probably pay for it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Good point. I will look for one. Meanwhile, I found the bridge for $125 used, with pads and hardware.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Jim, do you think I can make "some" adjustment to correct my problem, with only one bridge. Until I can add the second part? Or wait until I have two bridges to adjust.
 

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You could relocate the existing bridge closer to face of PH to help decrease space between knives but I'd wait for other bridge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Thank you. Jim- I am having some confusion with the operators manual. In the lower right hand corner of Page 26 it says to adjust knife clearance by adding shims behind the stationary knife. Is that to be done in conjunction with the bridge adjustments you described, or are yours the only ones I should do?
 

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One doesn't want to shim knife further towards PH than bottom guide or knives can hang together causes more problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
How do I go about shimming underneath the PH? Key 3 in the parts diagram? I believe I need to do that. Thanks!
 

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Loosen both nuts on plow bolts(key 9) then pry plungerhead up high enough to slide a shim(key 3) between wear pad(key 13) & PH then tighten nuts. Repeat this procedure until knives are square with each other.
 

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