[gradyjohn]

Last year we got a BC5070. In light dry hay I have a problem with the adjustments on the bales. I have used a JD348 for years with little or no problems. The NH has 3 on the top and 3 on the bottom of the feeding fingers rod. Is it that hard. We use another 5070 with bale skiis. I have used it and things worked ok. That can't be the problem? I get tired of rebaling busted bales because one string pops off. I have been baling since 1976 and never had this kind of a problem.

 

[Tx Jim]

Does your NH baler not have side resister doors or bale case wedges similar whats offered on JD 348?

 

[r82230]

Does your NH baler not have side resister doors or bale case wedges similar whats offered on JD 348?

On my 5070 it has both wedges and side doors (along with hydraulic bale tension). The key might be in the fist sentence 'light hay'. The 5070 is a hay eating machine (I believe the 348 can be too). I can remember that same problem in light hay with a JD 24t, which wasn't the hay eating machine of today's world. I would suggest bigger windrow and/or slowing down the PTO, while increasing ground speed.

Larry

PS I do love my bale skiis, too. Just helps the baler make idiot bricks for certain.

 

[skyrydr2]

I'm not sure I'm getting his question correct? Is it making puff balls or breaking the string? My 575 is basically the same machine and in heavy high moisture hay i will pop a string on bale exit or as soon as it hits the wagon or ground but rare do I get a loose bale? And it is a hay eating machine! I always feed it heavy because that makes the most consistent bales. It hates light windrows and if thats all I have, I have to shift up the ground speed.

 

[r82230]

I'm not sure I'm getting his question correct?

I was guessing his problem being on the cut side of the bale. Perhaps, he could adjust the feeding forks to over come that problem, but then in heavier hay he could have the opposite side doing the same thing, if he didn't re-adjust the forks. As you mentioned faster ground speed and/or larger windrows might be a easier/better solution.

Larry

 

[gradyjohn]

Does your NH baler not have side resister doors or bale case wedges similar whats offered on JD 348?

Yes it does ... the other NH is identical 'cept bale skiis.

I'm not sure I'm getting his question correct? Is it making puff balls or breaking the string? My 575 is basically the same machine and in heavy high moisture hay i will pop a string on bale exit or as soon as it hits the wagon or ground but rare do I get a loose bale? And it is a hay eating machine! I always feed it heavy because that makes the most consistent bales. It hates light windrows and if thats all I have, I have to shift up the ground speed.

Twine comes off when you pick them up.

I was guessing his problem being on the cut side of the bale. Perhaps, he could adjust the feeding forks to over come that problem, but then in heavier hay he could have the opposite side doing the same thing, if he didn't re-adjust the forks. As you mentioned faster ground speed and/or larger windrows might be a easier/better solution.

Larry

Yep tried that. Are the adjustments that critical? The other balers forks stay the same and we don't adjust. Not operator error either. It has Bale Skiis.

 

[r82230]

Twine comes off when you pick them up.

Just one side? If so, which side? (My guess, would be one side only, rational: smaller amount of material, finally getting grabbed by feeding forks, resulting in a partial feeding of plunger on one side. Causing a possible 'banana' bale.)

Does it comes off both sides (either side randomly)?

IDK if this could be a factor or not, what type of hay are you baling? What I'm thinking here is if it is grass, some seem to be slipperier when over dry (at lease in MY area). And if plastic twine (slipperier also, than sisal IMHO), you could have perfect storm.

Larry

 

[VA Haymaker]

IMHO - pickup the ground speed, rake more windrows together and slow the RPMs down so you basically have a lower capacity baler so that the pickup fills and the packer fork feeds a full charge of hay.

 

[gradyjohn]

Just one side? If so, which side? (My guess, would be one side only, rational: smaller amount of material, finally getting grabbed by feeding forks, resulting in a partial feeding of plunger on one side. Causing a possible 'banana' bale.)

Does it comes off both sides (either side randomly)?

IDK if this could be a factor or not, what type of hay are you baling? What I'm thinking here is if it is grass, some seem to be slipperier when over dry (at lease in MY area). And if plastic twine (slipperier also, than sisal IMHO), you could have perfect storm.

Larry

Coastal on the cut side. If you get in heavier hay the uncut side. 10 bale pods not consistent on some. Maybe next year it will be better. With no measurable of rain and cooler temps ... looks like we are done this year. That last field doesn't look like it will make it.

 

[Tx Jim]

Just baled some Coastal drought stricken hay yesterday with a JD 348. 25 acres made a whopping 436 ss bales. I raked 3 nine ft swathes together for windrow. Bales were good & tight resembling bricks. Baler didn't mis-tie not 1 bale

 

[gradyjohn]

Just baled some Coastal drought stricken hay yesterday with a JD 348. 25 acres made a whopping 436 ss bales. I raked 3 nine ft swathes together for windrow. Bales were good & tight resembling bricks. Baler didn't mis-tie not 1 bale

They look great. i have a JD700 rake and in the past I have looped the field 4 times to throw 4 rows together. I have a 946/13ft cut. We have about 30 acres left and going to try that.

 

[paoutdoorsman]

Coastal on the cut side. If you get in heavier hay the uncut side. 10 bale pods not consistent on some. Maybe next year it will be better. With no measurable of rain and cooler temps ... looks like we are done this year. That last field doesn't look like it will make it.

Did you happen to verify the timing is all set correctly?

I picked up a 348 this year and it kinda seems the higher capacity machine is much more finicky with side to side bale length than the older 336 I've been baling with, as the windrow gets heavier and lighter. The only thing I haven't liked about the machine.

 

[gradyjohn]

Did you happen to verify the timing is all set correctly?

I picked up a 348 this year and it kinda seems the higher capacity machine is much more finicky with side to side bale length than the older 336 I've been baling with, as the windrow gets heavier and lighter. The only thing I haven't liked about the machine.

We took the book and went thru all the timings and tolerances.

 

[Tx Jim]

Did you happen to verify the timing is all set correctly?

I picked up a 348 this year and it kinda seems the higher capacity machine is much more finicky with side to side bale length than the older 336 I've been baling with, as the windrow gets heavier and lighter. The only thing I haven't liked about the machine.

Actually there's not much difference between the 336 & 348 except 348 has wider pickup attachment,twice as many hay dogs & IIRC operates 20 strokes per minute faster at pto speed. Did you change setting on feeder forks during baling? How many bales per acre was hay producing?

 

[paoutdoorsman]

Yeah I moved the feeder fork a few times and have it set where I get the best possible uniformity.

 

[Tx Jim]

How many bales per acre? Were all 6 hay dogs functioning correctly? Were you feeding pickup attachment on extreme RH side giving auger opportunity to spread out windrow? Is auger drive belt snug?? Is auger belt above or below idler pulley?

 

[paoutdoorsman]

Bales per acre was varying widely across the behavior in second cut grass and third and fourth cut alfalfa.

Yes, all 6 hay dogs are working as expected and springs are in good condition.

Yes, I always feed the baler from the far right.

Yes the auger drive belt is snug and the idler pulley is under the belt.

 

[slowzuki]

Is the auger floating correctly? Our 336 and 348 behave almost the same except the 348 can go tighter and has extra packer fork settings that help in light hay.

If the auger is too high can cause clumps/wads.

 

[Tx Jim]

The idler on auger drive belt can be relocated to top of belt which will increase % of pulley's that belt contacts on both drive & driven pulleys.

 

[skyrydr2]

I thought this was about a NH 5070? Make sure you feed that monster and that all the dogs are working and springs are not broken,and it has at least the first row of wedges installed! Then you could tighten up doors and hydro-formatic pressure! I don't have any bale ski things on mine and it will pack a bale so tight the strings will "pop" if you drop the bale off the wagon! You can't even get your fingers under the strings!