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The only thing that would wear the side of the clamp is a roll. I just do not remember wearing so evenly. The rolls are retained by a bolt and hub the goes through the frame and into roll bearing support. When the hub breaks or bolt breaks the roll will move forward and can contact the clamp.

Take a prybar and see if any of the rolls move. There should be no movement except for the backlash in the gears. If you are not the original owner the problem may have occurred before you got the baler.

The clamp is a matched pair so do not mix parts. The clamp is machined and then the clamp is broken into the two pieces. So watch you have the broken sections mated correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The only thing that would wear the side of the clamp is a roll. I just do not remember wearing so evenly. The rolls are retained by a bolt and hub the goes through the frame and into roll bearing support. When the hub breaks or bolt breaks the roll will move forward and can contact the clamp.

Take a prybar and see if any of the rolls move. There should be no movement except for the backlash in the gears. If you are not the original owner the problem may have occurred before you got the baler.

The clamp is a matched pair so do not mix parts. The clamp is machined and then the clamp is broken into the two pieces. So watch you have the broken sections mated correctly.
Mike10, Thanks for the reply.
Correct, the hub is marked with a dimple on the matching ends. And they are made like rod ends and only go as they broke.
Not the original owner, only done a couple 100 bales. Not sure if the hub broke then wore the side down or if the wear caused the break, think it broke then the wear was later. Pivot roller only shows minimal contact patch. But the pivot roller appears to be out of line, the left side looks to be a little more forward then the right side, maybe an 1/8 of an inch. Can't really move it forward or back, small amount of movement.
Have you ever changed one of these hubs? Any words of wisdom getting everything back in and bolted together. Trying to do it from the top and its difficult to get enough hands in to hold the duckbill up and get the halves aligned and bolted together. I bolted the hub half to the duckbill the trying to get the parts together is proving to be a pain. First tried to bolt the halves to the beam but that made it so I couldn't get the bottom carriage bolt in.
 

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Do yourself a favor and pull the belts. It would not hurt to replace the lacing cables anyway. Unless someone installed steel pins instead of cables you can split the belts in less than 10 min. If you have a roll problem that will make that job easier also.

With the belts out you can position the sledge frame to make installing the clamps Much easier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Do yourself a favor and pull the belts. It would not hurt to replace the lacing cables anyway. Unless someone installed steel pins instead of cables you can split the belts in less than 10 min. If you have a roll problem that will make that job easier also.

With the belts out you can position the sledge frame to make installing the clamps Much easier.
I managed to get the hub/clamp on, not sure how tight the bolts need to be. The belts are pins, I think.

Any idea on the misalignment of the pivot roller?
 

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Unless there is a bearing out or missing center bolt, there is no way for the pivot roll to move. The pivot roll does not use the small hubs, which can break, to mount the roll. The cast pivot block fits into the sledge gear support and the right side has the external bearing.

Remove the small chain on the right side and you can then rotate sledge rolls. They should roll smoothly.

You can also take the tension off the belts and push the sledge frame all the way forward. Once all the way forward you can see the sledge roll mounting bolts and hubs in the holes cut in an arc in the side sheets. I do not think the pivot roll can reach the clamp, but the next roll(s) can if the hubs are broken. Be sure to engage the hyd lock lever before entering the bale chamber.

I would still remove the belts if you have time so you can check for bad roll bearings. Spin the rolls and listen for noise and also check for play in the rolls. There should be no play in any roll, except possibly the follower roll and then only if the roll has recently been removed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
so I got the clamp/hub on and with the machine running it rubs on the roller. Guess I have a bearing bad and will be pulling the pivot roller. Need to get this hay baled, have to call in someone to finish it until I get this repaired.
 
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