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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
New to me 456. Previously had a 535 but I wanted to have a 4' bale instead so I picked this up. I put all new chains on the left side and went over all the adjustments in the manual like all the spring tensions and adjustments like that.

Tried it for the first time today and the pickup was jamming quite a bit. It also left clumps of hay all over the field. Aside from that it seems to make a really tight bale. I tried running it without the compression rack and that might have made it worse, although might be a coin toss on which way was worse. I ended up running just under 2mph to get it to feed better.

Don't know if this means anything but I could unjam it by giving the hydraulic lever for the door a little bump towards the open position. I found that the right side was the biggest culprit. On the right side you would see the hay start to kick back towards the tractor and start to tumble. The left side seemed to suck it up more. There is one brand new belt on the baler and it's the far left side that fed better. Do I need to pay the piper and get new belts for the rest?

I did the same double raked rows like I always did with the 535. Maybe a bit too much for a 4' baler?







 

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Which type pickup attachment does your baler have? I think I see frames for converging wheels that the converging wheels are AWOL? If regular pickup I'll guess PU drive belt( E70675) is slipping & probably needs to be replaced. Is back of V belt above, even or below pully flared sides?? How wide in inches are your windrows??
4 ft regular pickup rd balers won't accept/bale as wide of windrow as 5 ft wide balers. 4 ft baler with Mega-wide pickup will accept wider windrows.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I believe this is a standard width pickup. Yes the gathering wheel frame is there but the wheels are not. The belt looks pretty old, I ordered a new one to keep as a backup, guess I'll install it. My rows probably get over 4' at times. I"m using a rotary rake and my goal is to push them together without overlapping so they can dry better, sometimes I'm a little off and they get a little wide.

 

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A crack in the belt isn't the major problem. The sides of the "V" are worn causing belt not to have the same area of grip on pullies as when belt was size of new belt
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Would it be worthwhile to add the gathering wheels since I already have the mounts? My 535 had gathering wheels but I never saw them really do anything.
 

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Converging wheels help make sides of formed bales firmer. With a lot of use the pivot(breakaway) gets worn allowing wheels to lean away from windrow causing wheels to leave some hay & be less affective. I'm glad JD introduced Mega-wide pickup which eliminated the need for converging wheels
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I replaced the belt and just didn't 2nd cutting. 2nd was a lot lighter than 1st. It only jammed once but it was leaving chunks of hay on the field and it looked like it was still tumbling forward while I baled. Someone recommended turning the rpms down which I was surprised to see in the manual too. The manual said to try running at 1/2 to 2/3 rpm
 

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What type crop are you attempting to bale & moisture content of crop? Yes slowing pto rpm's can help hay feeding problems.

I've added extra 14'' in length rods on each side of starter roll in between existing rods & that has helped core formation in drier moisture content grass hay on mine & some of my neighbors JD rd balers. Extra rods on starter roll helped stop hay from running belts in baler front.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
First cutting was an alfalfa field and an orchard grass field. The alfalfa fed pretty well, the grass is what was jamming. Making dry hay but it wasn't super dry. 2nd cutting was what I just did, pretty dry and shorter crop. Both times I had hay rolling forward, I think it jammed more with first cutting just because of the higher yield. Both times it was rolling forward but with the lower yield it could eventually grab it, just left a bunch of junk on the field.
 

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One thing you might want to look at is how worn the pickup cams and cam follower bearings are. I am not a Deere expert but I have heard that those components wear out especially on the 6 series balers and lead to feeding problems. If the cams and cam follower bearings are way worn or even the follower bearings are out completely, the tine bar won’t have the angle it needs to pick crop up and feed it into the chamber very well.
 

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If it was my baler I'd add 14'' rods on each end of starter roll in between existing rods just as I've done on the last few JD rd balers I've owned. JD did change pickup cam part # on 456 balers @ serial # 112316. Same cam follower brg part # has been used on 341 different model balers as far back as the X30 series balers. Checking condition of cam follower brg is easy by looking through hole in end of pickup. Checking cam track is a little more complicated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I don't have the serial in front me right now but I know it's an earlier one. I do a lot of mechanical stuff but am not familiar with how the parts of the pickup work yet. I did do the test from the manual where you rock the tines back and forth by hand and it looks like 2 of the tine bars are outside of tolerance. If I plan on keeping this baler for a while I feel like it wouldn't be a terrible idea to drop the pickup out and rebuild it.
 

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I don't know what you mean when you state rebuild pickup but cam & brg followers can be R&R by removing LH end of pickup with pickup remaining in baler. Teeth & strippers can also be replaced while pickup remains in baler ,
 
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