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Any Deutz Fanatics?

263 Views 4 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  Gearclash
Since these tractors are kind of a rarity, at least in my neck of the woods, I know I will be searching for wisdom at some point or another.

My great grandfather bought this D130 06 brand new in 1978. It was the largest tractor on our farm for many years. Around early 2000's we got a CIH MX130 with a loader and it became the big horse. The Deutz then shifted to retirement. It got hooked up to a small disc every once in a while just to keep it running, but sat the majority of the time. I remember as a kid being filled with joy every time it got to start up.

Fast forward a little bit, in the past 5-6 years, the tractor has only been started once. That was only to move it out of the barn and be parked outside.

I was finally able to purchase it from my grandfather and haul it home. We pulled it and it started up great.

It needs lots of love. It currently has no electronics and hasn't for the past 15 years, which is fine because it doesn't need them to run, but also means it has to be pull/roll started every time. That won't be nice to play with every time in in the field. Most of the lights are broken, the seat is almost nonexistent, brakes don't work, tach doesn't work, lift arms go up once it's running but stay there, and all maintenance other than engine oil has been neglected for the past 10 years or more.

Tire Wheel Sky Cloud Vehicle

I may be foolish, but if I can get things functioning properly I plan to put my JD 566 baler behind this thing for at least a few acres every year. The tractors we currently run don't have the ponies or the weight to feel safe on some of the hills we cut.

ALL fluids will be drained and replaced. From engine and transmission to axle, axle hubs and, belt pulley drive? :unsure:That's a new one even for me.

First question. I know I've read this on the old Ford 8n's. The transmission and hydraulic system calls for SAE 20 engine oil. Isn't there something about the weight of oil from that time period is not the same as todays? Something to do with mineral oil?

First on the list to repair is brakes. I know these tractors have a record for not being easy to keep brakes working. But the reservoir is dry, and I don't believe anyone in my family knew there is an access hole on the bottom side of the axle for an adjuster. Going to try and put fluid in it and bleed the system first.

@Tim/South ?

And @8350HiTech ?
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If the reservoir is dry then you probably have a leak somewhere and bleeding won’t be productive.
Correct, but I have to find where it's leaking.
I would love to have a 4x4 100 (or 130) and the only part of this I don’t like is running a round baler with an open station tractor. But you do you.

06 series are well known for poor braking systems even when running, so having gone unused (and probably dry) for a long time you should be expecting to find your leak basically everywhere. OE brake parts are insanely expensive but there are aftermarket that aren’t so bad. Seal kits exist but are expensive if you buy them from any of the main Deutz dealers online. Seals can also be bought direct from Europe either as kits or as individual seals if you aren’t in a big hurry.
There are also kits and/or just instructions to cobble them together from various VW or GM master cylinders, and some people swear by those, but I have no knowledge of their functionality.

The rest of what’s wrong should be easy.
The transmission and hydraulic system calls for SAE 20 engine oil. Isn't there something about the weight of oil from that time period is not the same as todays? Something to do with mineral oil?
SAE 20 will be hard to find today. I would consider the much more common 10W-30 oil a good replacement for SAE 20. Or use a good hydraulic fluid. At least an AW rated oil, or a premium hydraulic fluid. Don’t use the cheap hydraulic oils, they have a minimum of antiwear additive, their levels being far below that of a good engine oil.
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