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You are well on your way to earning your PhD in baling.
Good work. Understanding the process is very valuable knowledge.

PS
I once told one of my co-workers that where I was from, their PhD stood for PostHoleDigger. Sadly he was not amused or impressed.
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
i already have my phd in bailing im not new to it by any means but i just got this baler last year used with 12k bales thru it but it has a lot of new parts and my guess is that they were put on and not adjusted right i never messed with it last year cuz we were behind but this year the weather has let me get ahead ans i just started tinkering with it about a week ago but going from a vermeer that i could adjust and run in my sleep to a deere is a bit of a learning curve but i catch on fast and learning curves were meant to be taken fast and loud and be broken
 
One of the things I noticed is that with the wideb pickup baler you can tend to crowd the outsides and makes them higher than the rest so the wrap slips down as it goes on.....I even noticed this on a regular pickup.. the idea bale is rows big enough to set your rake a little more than your width of bale.....
 
i already have my phd in bailing im not new to it by any means but i just got this baler last year used with 12k bales thru it but it has a lot of new parts and my guess is that they were put on and not adjusted right i never messed with it last year cuz we were behind but this year the weather has let me get ahead ans i just started tinkering with it about a week ago but going from a vermeer that i could adjust and run in my sleep to a deere is a bit of a learning curve but i catch on fast and learning curves were meant to be taken fast and loud and be broken
Glad to see that you figured it out.Thanks for sharing the cure.
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
since it was a used machine and i dont know what all they put in new shortly before i got it who knows what else is messed up in there but i will say that the rubber and the steel roller look brand new i was told it had a new brush and a new counterknife in it just before it was traded

my thought was maybe they traded it cuz the warranty was up and they werent going to help them figure out what was wrong with the net not going on quite right
 
Yes there is a brake and it does do more than just keep if from turning when not feeding net. I highly recomend you get the Tech Manual for this baler, they are high but more that worth it. In the Tech manual there is a section about net wrap streach, which is set by that brake. You need to put a torque wrench on that bolt that holds the puley on that the brake stops, it should not slip untill you reach between 30 to 50ftlbs I belive. I set mine to 50ftlbs and keep it that way. If it dont meet that spec then adjust that brake pad with shims that are behind it or replace brake pad. cover edge net will not warp perfectly untill this it set right. The brake should stop the net roller before the net contacts the kinfe and cuts so it has that time to streach the cover edge over the edge of bale. If brake slips then you dont get the streach needed. Also be a good idea to make sure there is not any trash or stalks or anything in the path of the net on the edges of track that will deflect the net in anyway. Also make sure all hardware is in place right and nothing is out of wack in the net track.

I have videos going over the 468 Baler and talk about this problem. I think this is talked about in part 2 and 3. Look up "Spring Hollow Hay Farm 468 Baler Review", on YouTube.

Part 2
Part 3
DITTO on brake setting.
 
Someone correct me if I am wrong, but the brake has nothing to do with net tension.Net tension is set by adding or removing shims on drive roller pulley. when the net drive roll idler engages the feed roll drive belt the brake is released and net feeds onto belts. when wrapping is complete idler disengages and resets brake stopping any more net from feeding on to belts and allowing knife to cut net. The net is pulled down over bale edge by auger looking extension at each end of roller at back of gate. not a veery good description but that is how it works .
 
Someone correct me if I am wrong, but the brake has nothing to do with net tension.Net tension is set by adding or removing shims on drive roller pulley.

Sorry but the brake on net drive pulley when adjusted correctly puts tension on netwrap as it's being applied to bale. Yes there are green augers on tailgate roller close to netwrap attachment to help spread cover-edge netwrap over ends of the bale.
 
Someone correct me if I am wrong, but the brake has nothing to do with net tension.Net tension is set by adding or removing shims on drive roller pulley.

Sorry but the brake on net drive pulley when adjusted correctly puts tension on netwrap as it's being applied to bale. Yes there are green augers on tailgate roller close to netwrap attachment to help spread cover-edge netwrap over ends of the bale.
Do you have JD baler? If so next time you are baling, check the brake while it is wrapping and you will find that there is no tension on brake at all. i checked mine today. the brake cannot be adjusted to put tension on it while wrapping.
 
Yes I own a JD 467 with netwrap. If brake has no tension on it then please explain how the rubber brake pad on my baler got 2 deep grooves worn in it from contacting netwrap drive sheave requiring rotating pad 180 degrees ???
 
You are correct,the brake pad is always in contact with the roller. When you pull that handle down and over to the side that locks the pad against the roller. Then when it gets ready to cut the net full braking force is applied.

My pad wore like yours. I was too cheap to buy another so I rotated mine too.
 
Someone correct me if I am wrong, but the brake has nothing to do with net tension.Net tension is set by adding or removing shims on drive roller pulley. when the net drive roll idler engages the feed roll drive belt the brake is released and net feeds onto belts. when wrapping is complete idler disengages and resets brake stopping any more net from feeding on to belts and allowing knife to cut net. The net is pulled down over bale edge by auger looking extension at each end of roller at back of gate. not a veery good description but that is how it works .
You are correct. Add or remove shims to the drive roll sheave. This adjusts the stretch of the net measured by the distance between the weaves of the net.

The brake pad is to stop the the roller at the moment of cutting the net at the end of the wrap cycle. The two grooves in the pad are from riding on the sheave at the end of the wrap cycle. Normal wear and tear. Shims are added and removed to this pad in order to obtain the 40 ft/lbs of torque required to stop the roller.
 
You are correct. Add or remove shims to the drive roll sheave. This adjusts the stretch of the net measured by the distance between the weaves of the net.

The brake pad is to stop the the roller at the moment of cutting the net at the end of the wrap cycle. The two grooves in the pad are from riding on the sheave at the end of the wrap cycle. Normal wear and tear. Shims are added and removed to this pad in order to obtain the 40 ft/lbs of torque required to stop the roller.
Thank you Bonfire. Tx Jim, the pad wears from stopping rotation of rubber feed roller at end of each wrap cycle. When feed roll idler arm rotates up and engages drive belt, it also releases tension from pad. I say again check yours while it is wrapping, If the pad had tension during wrap cycle it would wear out quickly and I have seen them run thousands of bales before needing to be turned or replaced.
 
It's never too late to teach an "old dog" new tricks. Thanks for the explanation which when I thought about it makes "perfect sense"!!!!!!!!! Speaking of pad wear I just rotated my pad for the 1st time @ 18,000 bales

Thanks again,Jim
 
If I remember correctly 0n 7and 8 series balers remove bolt that holds drive roller to its mounting bracket,then remove bolts from mounting bracket, bracket then should come off baler.. Belt can be pulled off end of roller. Dont know how to change belt on 9 series because roller bracket is welded to baler frame.
 
If I remember correctly 0n 7and 8 series balers remove bolt that holds drive roller to its mounting bracket,then remove bolts from mounting bracket, bracket then should come off baler.. Belt can be pulled off end of roller. Dont know how to change belt on 9 series because roller bracket is welded to baler frame.
Thanks for the jd4230 one the mechanics at the deere house helped me out, big Time .
 
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