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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
When you say knife back, are you referring to the bar the segments bolt to, or the actual segment? If Segment, then the hold downs are too far above the segments to do any good. If you mean bar, then it looks like everything lines up when I pull the shim out.

The way the old bar looks, the back of most segments were chewed up and majority of the wear plates were pretty much worn through.
 

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The bar is the knife back and the segments are the sections. The back of the section will rest on the top of the wear plate With the front edge of the wear plate close to the knife back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Excellent we are BOTH on the same page. It is all done now except for some oil and a run in to wear the hold downs in a bit. They are snug to where paint is rubbing off a bit and I need a pry bar to move the slip clutch, which a read elsewhere that if it can be moved by hand they are too loose, moving with a pry bar but not binding, then they are good. I might need to smack the very last one a bit more, but going to get an oil can and some 30 weight and give it a run on the tractor for a few minutes first.

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
There will more than likely need to be some adjustments, but first let the paint wear off. I can't run the PTO out of cab yet, I have a seat switch on order for the tractor, should be here Thursday, then I can run it at idle and watch the hold downs to make adjustments as needed, but FIRST I need to pick up an oil can and 30 weight to lube it all up. Reading the manual, they have a 30 minute run in period on new machines, and since this is a new blade and hold downs and plates, I was considering running it at idle for a while for a wear in period. While it is running I can check the hold downs and see how they are doing. The one at the far end I did get too tight and I took it off to put in a vise to bend it back, and noticed the part that was in contact had worn through the paint and left scratches from the segment in the metal, so looks like pretty soft metal is used. The segments are much harder steel than the hold downs.
 

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I always remove the paint from the hold downs before putting them on. Instead of removing the clips to raise them, try this. Move the knife so the sections are over the guards. Take a heavy hammer and hit the crown of the hold down clip. I then grab the tips of the sections and see if I can move the knife front to back. If the hold downs require too much adjustment, then shim under the hold downs. If you can not slide the knife in or out of the machine by hand then things are too tight and can be detrimental to the knife drive.
 

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The knife should be easy to move back and forth, and wiggle in the guards as Mike explained. I demonstrated that in one of my haybine vids for adjusting stub guards as well. I agree your bolt threads stick out too far. Even if that's what the manual says, they are going to catch and snag grass. You also get a lot of chaff piled up on that area during mowing.

You can run it for a few minutes then shut it down and carefully touch the hold downs, making sure none of them are getting very hot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I think I understand what to do, shouldn't take much more to get it just right, at least now the wear plates are in the correct position, not like they were when I got it, which explains why the segments are so chewed up. I have a .030 shim card I used for engine building, I can slip that between the plate and bar as minimum gap. That should give it enough room.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Going to have to take a cut off wheel if I want shorter bolts. No one has 1 3/4" bolts in bulk and I am not spending $60 for stainless steel ones either. The bag of bolts only cost me $14 for all of them, Bolt, nut and lock washer. I will attack the adjustments this weekend and put the mower to work, thanks for all the help.
 
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