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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My new to me 1209 is getting a new bar and hold downs/wear plates, but I am not 100% sure where they are supposed to go. Some of what was done on this previously looked slapped together to make work and some were missing. Is there a particular spacing on where to place them? All but 3 guards are good, only needed the three new ones, and the plates are good, ordered new, but they are back ordered. Have a new sickle bar too. I had to remove everything in order to get the old worn out bar out. Neither manual I have for the mower has information on the layout, just the number of each item.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
OK I just need confirmation on this. Starting on the head end, first wear plate with over sized hoop hold down is first double guard, then every other one until the left end where there are three next to each other. I also discovered the single guard on the right is missing, so I will cut one of the twisted ones in half and use it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
well, I got them all installed after much trial and error. My concern is that I don't think this mower started out with bolted segments and was converted at some point. The serial number tag is rotted away. The bar I pulled out, the back of the segments were all worn down, the bar itself had a groove in it from rubbing against the wear plates, and there were wear plates on top of wear plates.

When I tried to put the parts in as pictured in the parts manual, with the wear plate on the bottom, a worn out wear plate on top of that and the hold down on top of that. It was easy to find where the wear plates were mounted, so I put the new ones in the same place. The issue I ran into is if I put the wear plate on first, it sat too low, the segment rode up on top of it, so I took the old worn plate, reversed it, put the wear plate on top and then the hold down, and that seemed to work. Where I ran into the confusion originally is the first position near the wobble end. The wear plate was too tight, and yes, their was a wear plate there. I am surprised the end didn't snap off the bar fro the pressure of it. Since the bar moves forward and back as well as side to side, there was no room for a wear plate under the looped hold down. I went through the parts count and I think I have them in the correct spots now and have allowed for the back and forth movement. It moves smoothly with only the looped hold down rubbing a segment.

It took me until about 6 tonight to finish it all up. I then hooked up the tractor and ran it for the first time. It was surprisingly quiet. I thought for sure the reel would be noisy as it squeeks when I rotate it by hand. I then took a pass on some grass and it cut it surprisingly well, better than my finish mower does.

Heres the end I was asking about, is this correct?

Plant Yellow Biome Rectangle Urban design


Heres the pin end.
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I am not familiar with the JD mower, but if I am seeing the photos correctly, the parts are not installed correctly. In the photos it appears the top of the sections are tight against the top bar of the guards instead of the bottom of the section being down on the ledger surface of the guard.

it is unlikely that your machine came with bolt on sections. When section rivets are replaced with bolts the hold down clips also need to be changed to higher clips. That would explain why you had to use old wear plates with the new wear plates So the bolts would clear the hold down clips.

The hold down placement does not appear to be correct either, but like I said, I am not familiar with the JD machines. Probably the correct placement would be for the outer most hold down clip to be over the second guard from the end. From there to the drive end the hold downs would be on every other guard. This would also probably change where the drive hold down is positioned.
 

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The guards may not be correct either for the wear plates you are using. The guards have a channel that the knife back travels in. The rear surface of the channel should be lower than the front part of the channel to use the wear plates you have. If the guards front and rear surfaces of the channel are the sam height you do not use wear plates since the guard itself keeps the knife in position.
 

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JIm, The way I see the parts breakdown and the instructions, no wear plates are used, only shims to raise or lower the hold down clips. In fact if you look at the drawing of the two guards at the top of the page you will see one guard with a high wear bar and one with a low wear bar. For those who I am confusing, the wear bar is the vertical part right in front of where the bolt holes of the guard are. I did not read the instructions that close, but it seems that at least on the drive end a low wear bar guard is used and most of the remainder of the bar are the high wear bar guards. Wear plates are nut used or needed with high wear bar guards.

The shims are not wear plates, and do not contact the knife, but are only used to space the hold down clips
 

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It's been too many years since I've even given sickle bars much thought. Many yrs ago JD parts stated number of parts items required. Item 5 is wear plate I'm referring to not the shims
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I am not familiar with the JD mower, but if I am seeing the photos correctly, the parts are not installed correctly. In the photos it appears the top of the sections are tight against the top bar of the guards instead of the bottom of the section being down on the ledger surface of the guard.

it is unlikely that your machine came with bolt on sections. When section rivets are replaced with bolts the hold down clips also need to be changed to higher clips. That would explain why you had to use old wear plates with the new wear plates So the bolts would clear the hold down clips.

The hold down placement does not appear to be correct either, but like I said, I am not familiar with the JD machines. Probably the correct placement would be for the outer most hold down clip to be over the second guard from the end. From there to the drive end the hold downs would be on every other guard. This would also probably change where the drive hold down is positioned.
The guards may not be correct either for the wear plates you are using. The guards have a channel that the knife back travels in. The rear surface of the channel should be lower than the front part of the channel to use the wear plates you have. If the guards front and rear surfaces of the channel are the sam height you do not use wear plates since the guard itself keeps the knife in position.
I think you are seeing the reflection at the cutting edge and thinking they are rub marks. I thought the same when I looked at the picture. The blades are roughly 1/32" above the bottom edge of the guards. The only thing rubbing is the first hold down, third segment. The machine had not been run when I took that, only rotated by hand a few times.

I have the parts manual for this mower, unfortunately I do not have the serial number since the plate it is on rotted off. However it IS a second gen unit since both the riveted and bolt on use the bushed pin and not the tie rod end type pitman. 285001+ There is a repair order in the books I got for when the gear box was repaired back on 2006 and has a serial of 341006E, but don't know if thats a legit number.


In the manual there are alternate part numbers for the hold down, Sub AE57172, which is what the hold downs you see are. There are only 2 types of guards, the ones you see and what Deere calls non clog, but everyone refers to stub guards.

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I think I see what you are referring to. The wear plates are used with the cast adjustable hold down, while the alternate IS the wear plate and hold down in one. That makes sense now, because as I was looking at these while installing, I thought, gee, that looks like it could act as a wear plate. It does also explain why the back of the segments were all chewed up. So basically I just need the one wear plate near the head end, and swap out the wear plates with just the hold downs. The 1/16" plates apparently are used then to shim up the hold downs. The picture on the left, the bolt head sits inside that square opening because there are no holes and it is too short even if there were. I also do not see ghost marks where there could have been those type hold downs, so best guess is that it came with the cast hold downs and they were replaced with the cheaper ones later on, but were not done correctly.

Good thing I parked it in the same spot I was working on it in, just in case.
 

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After all the years it is hard to know what has been changed so take a look at the guards to see if they have the high or low wear bar. This will tell you if wear plates or shims are needed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I took a closer look and I think the last hold down does not have a shim under the wear plate. The rest of them do. From looking at these, it looks like the wear plate should be under the segments because I notice there is a pitch to the blades, they aren't parallel to the guards, the tip points up. The base where everything bolts is lower than all the guards.

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
OOPs I'm SORRY Oldtimer's disease acting up again.
Happens here too! LOL Was helping someoe with their HST problem and completely missed the part where their power steering wasn't working. DOH.

Anyway, after looking at the pictures I took, should have done that before, there is a lot that stands out. Blade is on an angle, rear is pitched down so not parallel to the guards. Huge gap behind bar and mower base. Segments riding against both the the wear plate and hold down. The other hold downs are sticking up too high because of the shim.

From the looks of it, the wear plate should go under the segments, so remove the plate and push them under so the bar rides against them, then the hold downs should have the segment ride against it and be able to put more pressure on the top of the segments to hold them against the guards.

Does this sound right? As far as placement, which is what I originally was posting about, does it really matter?
 

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You push the wear plates up against the knife back and guard to take all back and forth motion out of the knife. Then slightly move the wear plate back so there is no binding of the knife back. The knife should then have a slight amount of front to back movement. If the knife does not push up against the guard, do not pry the knife forward. This is more likely at the head end of the knife since the knife drive wii prevent that end of the knife from back and forth movement. Just leave a small gap between the wear plate and knife back.

Depending on how the knife is driven, the drive moves in an ark, the knife may move back and forward during the stroke. Adjust the wear plate when the knife is at the most rearward movement.
 
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