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Accessing NH 326 Hayliner knives


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#1 vhaby

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Posted 04 May 2021 - 09:13 PM

I may be showing my ignorance but, before I crawl into this older New Holland 326 small square baler to sharpen the knives, is there an easier way to access these knives than climbing over the pick up fingers and squirming my my way to them, or by doing the same through the bale chute? And, would it be better to unbolt these two knives and sharpen them on a grinder in the shop? I would appreciate knowing an easier way to access and sharpen these knives if there is one...

Vincent



#2 Tx Jim

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Posted 05 May 2021 - 06:53 AM

If I wanted to sharpen the PH/stationary knives I'd remove them from the baler.  R&R of PH from bale chamber to access knife only takes a few minutes especially if an air or electric impact wrench is available to utilize. One needs to remove bolt in hay resisters before PH removal. Be careful not to discolor knife & don't get knives TOO SHARP.

If baler has Bale Skis I have no experience with them



#3 8350HiTech

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Posted 05 May 2021 - 07:26 AM

If I wanted to sharpen the PH/stationary knives I'd remove them from the baler. R&R of PH from bale chamber to access knife only takes a few minutes especially if an air or electric impact wrench is available to utilize. One needs to remove bolt in hay resisters before PH removal. Be careful not to discolor knife & don't get knives TOO SHARP.
If baler has Bale Skis I have no experience with them


There no need to remove the plunger. If anything removing the top tension rail will provide more than enough access to remove knives and it can be done even without that step depending how thick one's arms are. Knives can also be sharpened in the baler if one is flexible or willing to suffer a few bumps or bruises to save a few minutes.

I like to sharpen them with a flap disc on my angle grinder. I might use an actual grinding wheel to start if there are any large chunks that I want to clean up before using the sanding disc. A belt sander would also work great.
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#4 Hayjosh

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Posted 05 May 2021 - 08:06 AM

My only reservation to removing the knives is that shimming them seems like kind of a pain.
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#5 Tx Jim

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Posted 05 May 2021 - 09:07 AM

My only reservation to removing the knives is that shimming them seems like kind of a pain.

If one replaces shims with same thickness of shims I fail to see a problem.  :D


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#6 Tx Jim

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Posted 05 May 2021 - 09:11 AM

There no need to remove the plunger. If anything removing the top tension rail will provide more than enough access to remove knives and it can be done even without that step depending how thick one's arms are. Knives can also be sharpened in the baler if one is flexible or willing to suffer a few bumps or bruises to save a few minutes.
 

Due to being claustrophobic I have no desire it get inside a small sq bale chamber to do anything!



#7 8350HiTech

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Posted 05 May 2021 - 09:44 AM

Due to being claustrophobic I have no desire it get inside a small sq bale chamber to do anything!


Only your arms have to go in.
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#8 Tx Jim

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Posted 05 May 2021 - 10:52 AM

If you live to be my ripe old age you possibly would choose not to stretch out over pickup attachment but then you'll probably be more agile than I am.  For me it would be easier the remove the PH & while it's out inspect brgs & guides for wear. Different strokes for different folks!  :D


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#9 8350HiTech

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Posted 05 May 2021 - 11:25 AM

If you live to be my ripe old age you possibly would choose not to stretch out over pickup attachment but then you'll probably be more agile than I am. For me it would be easier the remove the PH & while it's out inspect brgs & guides for wear. Different strokes for different folks! :D


Understood, but to be clear, I’m not suggesting doing anything over the pickup. It should be possible to reach both, especially for just a touch up, from the top of the chamber if the plunger is most of the way rearward.

#10 DSLinc1017

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Posted 05 May 2021 - 11:39 AM

Raise the tongue as high as it will go, or even pick it up with a FEL.   Remove the stop nut on the pickup arm guide (the arm that allows you to raise the pick up for road travel)  this will allow the pick up to drop the whole pickup very low.  Giving more access to the knives.  

If you lay some good thick card board on the lowered pick up and then a packing blanket you have a very comfortable working position.  The actual sharpening is quick.    Like Tx Jim, said re setting the shims can be a pain in the A$$.  We re did our rails and bearings last year.  We found a lot of rust on the shims and under the rails.  (yes the baler is always stored inside) This made for more work than we anticipated,  flap grinding rust and re sealing with several rattle cans.   

However like Tx Jim says while you are in there its a good time to open up the re-build can of worms!   

Much luck,  

 

And that was my #1000 post!  


Edited by DSLinc1017, 05 May 2021 - 11:40 AM.

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#11 Aaroncboo

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Posted 05 May 2021 - 02:13 PM

If you know somebody small enough stick them in the chute. I for one have my wife to do that! That's the best looking thing to ever come out of the baler.

Attached Files


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#12 vhaby

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Posted 05 May 2021 - 11:11 PM

Got it done today. Thanks for all your inputs and suggestions. I've done this before, but thought there had to be a better way. However, I ended up doing it the same way as before. After lowering the pick up, I placed a 2' x 4.5' piece of quarter inch plyboard over the pick up fingers, turned the fly wheel until the front knife was almost fully forward, and squirmed into the knife area first on my back to grind the forward knife, and then on my belly to grind the stationary knife. Had to use my left hand/arm to grind the front knife and right hand/arm to grind the rear stationary knife. Not much fun as I barely fit. After reading about the possible difficulty of realigning the shims, there was no way that I was going to remove the knives from the bale chamber to sharpen them.

The rear stationary knife appeared adequately sharp, but I did a tough up on it anyway. The front knife was quite dull so I had to use a grinding wheel first and then finish with a cutting disk. Using a headlight and eye protection is a must. I started to attempt to squirm into the bale chamber but soon realized I'm not capable of adjusting my position once in the chamber, so not going in that way was a no brainer.

Good idea Aaron, but if you showed your wife those images, I hope you survived.


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#13 Aaroncboo

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Posted 05 May 2021 - 11:24 PM

I never miss a chance to take a Pic of her hanging out of equipment. Lol. She just laughs. She likes to help anyway she can especially since I can't fit in a lot of places.

#14 ttazzman

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Posted 06 May 2021 - 01:26 PM

Curious as to what specific tool combination you guys use...4" grinder seems to large...

#15 DSLinc1017

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Posted 06 May 2021 - 03:40 PM

Curious as to what specific tool combination you guys use...4" grinder seems to large...

4" grinder 80 grit.  The hardest part is keeping the angle.  Works like a charm!


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#16 vhaby

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Posted 06 May 2021 - 10:01 PM

4.5" disk on hand held...agree about keeping the angle being difficult, but the most difficult part is holding the grinder single handedly while being in a very awkward position to watch what it is doing, especially while grinding the front knife on which the angle is facing away from you when you work lying over the pick up assembly. A headlight helps along with alternate grinding and feeling the edge for sharpness. Not fun...


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