You're welcome, glad I could help. I've fixed a few of these rakes with this issue, and I was in your shoes at one time trying to make sense of everything. It's not all that complicated, just a little time consuming. I'm not sure Krone will sell the service manual or not. I'm thinking it is intended for dealers only. I do have a few critical pages as it relates to the ring/pinion backlash. I'll send those to you if I can find them. But that is the only thing that you would really need it for. Everything else is very straight forward, and I can try to help if you get stuck along the way. In a nutshell, here is your process:
1. Unbolt and remove the rear SMV sign and frame from the rear, and the safety guards and curtain from the sides.
2. Pull each set of tine arm bolts and pull the tine arms out of the rotor. I would pull the bolts from 3 arms initially, then wiggle the center arm from those three loose. After that just work your way around the rotor pulling the arms. A 16 model should have the folding tine arms, so just stack them in order they were removed, or remember the proper spacing so the folding arms get put back in the correct order.
3. Make sure the rake is in the lowered position and disconnect the hydraulic raise cylinder hose where it meets the steel line at the rear of the main frame. Pull it down through the center tube.
4. Remove the PTO shaft and unbolt the bearing retainer flange bolts at the front of the frame. Slide the drive shaft out of the main frame. If the drive shaft is tight on the pinion stub shaft inside the frame, just release the bearing lock collar, and pull the bearing assembly off. This makes it a little more difficult to remove the main frame as you will have to slide it completely over the drive shaft. Since you said your drive shaft moves in and out 1/2", this should not be the case.
5. Now to separate the main frame. I like to support the under carriage with a floor jack, then if possible support/suspend the main frame from overhead. A couple of fellas can manhandle the main frame easily enough too and just walk it away and set it down. Once both are supported, pull the 6 bolts holding the main frame to the cast rotor housing. Carefully separate the frame from the rotor housing and roll the undercarriage away to the rear.
6. Remove the top center screw holding the cast rotor housing to the vertical shaft, then lift the rotor housing up off the shaft. There will likely be a few shims on the shaft or stuck to the underside of the rotor housing. Whatever was necessary to set the original backlash correctly. You may need more or less of these on re-assembly.
7. Remove the upper rotor housing, the cam track, spacer, and lower rotor housing. Depending on the curvature of the shaft, these might be a fight.
8. Replace the shaft, and reverse this process. There were two styles of shafts. One bolted to the undercarriage with 6 bolts radially around the shaft, and the other passed through the undercarriage and used a big screw similar to the one used on top to secure the rotor housing. Out of curiosity, which style do you have?
To give you a better idea, you can see the curvature of the shaft from the first 42T I had in these pics.