
Decode JD 336 baler serial number.
#1
Posted 02 October 2020 - 04:27 PM
#2
Posted 02 October 2020 - 06:32 PM
Any particular reason for decoding the serial number?
IIRC they built them for a number of years (8-10 years maybe, in the 70's), but for buying purposes I wouldn't find the manufacturing year that important. Condition / use / storage attributes would be much more important, along with the availability of a knowledgeable service & parts manager. Rational: baler is going to be somewhere' s between 40 or 50 years old. If you don't have a knowledgeable dealer close by................., you could have a steep learning curve on repairs.
My two pennies, hope I'm not short changing you.
Larry
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#3
Posted 02 October 2020 - 08:12 PM
#4
Posted 03 October 2020 - 06:25 AM
I'm not aware of a way to determine year of manufacture from the serial of the 336 baler, but usually the Deere dealer parts or service department would have access to that information and would likely share it with you.
#5
Posted 03 October 2020 - 07:46 AM
All I can locate in JD parts is 336 balers were built '71-'80. JD dealer should have serial # yr info if available.
Attached Files
#6
Posted 03 October 2020 - 08:20 AM
#7
Posted 03 October 2020 - 08:34 AM
That's just a photo I selected with the "manufacture dates" shown. YES 336 was offered in twine tie! I will guess many more 336 twine balers than wire balers were produced. If it was me I'd look for a 346 twine tie that will have a wider pickup attachment & TWICE as many hay dogs & IIRC a heavier flywheel
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#8
Posted 04 October 2020 - 06:56 AM
There are some advantages to the 346 like Tx Jim mentioned, but I wouldn't shy away from the 336 either if it's condition and price are attractive. I put many tens of thousands of bales through a 336 before upgrading to my 348, and they are good balers.
#9
Posted 04 October 2020 - 08:16 AM
I agree 336 are good balers I just prefer wider pickup attachment & twice as many hay dogs. 336 has 4 PU tooth angles while 346 has 6 tooth attaching angles for better picking up of windrow. 346 has heavier flywheel with larger shear bolt also.
#10
Posted 04 October 2020 - 08:47 AM
I’m also not in a great hurry, but I don’t want to miss a good baler at a decent price. I appreciate all the advice, guys. I find this group to be of great value!
#11
Posted 05 October 2020 - 12:49 PM
Right now the two on my radar are a 336 for $2500, and a 338 for $3500. I don’t know the condition of either. They’re rather far from me (300 and 700 miles) but I don’t mind traveling for the right machine. I’m in western NC, and this is primarily New Holland country, so not many JDs to be had nearby.
I’m also not in a great hurry, but I don’t want to miss a good baler at a decent price. I appreciate all the advice, guys. I find this group to be of great value!
im curious about transportation method ......we all ways pulled ours ......never tried to fit one on a trailer.......will a 338 fit on a trailer without turning it up on its side?
#12
Posted 06 October 2020 - 01:30 PM
Re: transportation;
Way back in 2002, i bought a used JD 375 in a town about 400 miles away, towed it home behind the pick up truck.
Placed an SMV sign at the back, and a set of tail lights I made up that plugged into the 7 pin on the truck.
Connected to the receiver hitch with a large bolt and a lock nut, worked well.
Stopped frequently at first to check for wheel bearing heat etc. but soon just kept going, near highway speeds, no problems
#13
Posted 06 October 2020 - 06:30 PM
Re: transportation;
Way back in 2002, i bought a used JD 375 in a town about 400 miles away, towed it home behind the pick up truck.
Placed an SMV sign at the back, and a set of tail lights I made up that plugged into the 7 pin on the truck.
I been told to cover (or remove) SMV sign IF traveling over 25 MPH. Maybe it's just a HERE thing.
Larry
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#14
Posted 07 October 2020 - 12:18 AM
I been told to cover (or remove) SMV sign IF traveling over 25 MPH. Maybe it's just a HERE thing.
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Larry
Not sure, have never been stopped, I assume its legal at any reasonable speed around these parts.
#15
Posted 07 October 2020 - 09:56 AM
im curious about transportation method ......we all ways pulled ours ......never tried to fit one on a trailer.......will a 338 fit on a trailer without turning it up on its side?
Yes, with a little creativity. I hauled my 338 and 348 home on a 102" deckover trailer without turning them on their sides. Just lift from both sides, back the trailer under, lower onto blocks and pull the wheels. Might have some pics if I dig back a bit.
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#16
Posted 07 October 2020 - 01:51 PM
Found some pics from when I brought the 348 home. I removed both wheels to keep it (almost) inside the width of the trailer. The kicker safety frame stuck out the most so I also removed the left kicker safety screen so it didn't look so obvious rolling up the road. If you don't have a kicker, even easier. I also pulled the side shield just to be safe so it didn't catch the wind and disappear. I'm sure the right officer could have taken issue with this load, but I didn't have any trouble on a 265 mile mostly interstate pull.
To load and unload, you really need two loaders. I use pallet forks chained together to cradle the right wheel and lift, and two chains on the left side (one from the hitch, and one to the left axle). Lift, pull trailer out, lower.
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