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how do I get this flange out


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#1 KFhunter

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Posted 31 July 2020 - 02:12 PM

I got everything off, two chain sprockets and collar.

I was wondering if I have to take off the thick backer plate?  remove the roller? 

 

 

local dealer just said take the bearing out and cross reference it to a general bearing supplier 

 

 

Those screwdriver marks in the bearing seals aren't from me, dunno why someone would do that to those seals and thin metal to keep the seals from pooching out 

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#2 KFhunter

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Posted 31 July 2020 - 02:22 PM

.

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#3 Aaroncboo

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Posted 31 July 2020 - 02:34 PM

Could you use a gear puller? I'd wire wheel the shaft as much as I could and spray it with pb blaster. At the worst I've gotten really good with grinders and cutting them out. Just had to do that with the pickup on my round baler.

#4 KFhunter

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Posted 31 July 2020 - 02:37 PM

cut the pot metal flange? 

 

not enough room to slip gear puller teeth in behind it



#5 E220

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Posted 31 July 2020 - 02:40 PM

If you are lucky you can turn it enough to put a puller on the bolt tabs. That flange has a ledge or ring on the back that recesses into the frame. You can't easily cut the flange so I would pop the seals out and melt the cage out. Then you can hopefully get the balls out of the bearing so the flange will slide off. Then put a puller on the race.


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#6 mike10

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Posted 31 July 2020 - 03:23 PM

Pry the outer seal out of the bearing.  drive a screwdriver through the plastic ball retainer to split the retainer.  pull the retainer out.  Take your screwdriver and knock the back seal out of the bearing.  Move the balls to the top so the shaft can drop down.  If there is enough room pry out one of the balls.  If not enough room, torch or grind one ball out.  There will now be enough room for the shaft to move down and the rest of the balls will come out.


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#7 Ox76

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Posted 31 July 2020 - 05:26 PM

For what it's worth I've taken a grinder with thin cutoff wheel and cut mostly through the inner race that won't come off and then split it off with a good whack on a cold chisel.  A little mark or two on that shaft from a little too deep of a cut won't hurt a thing - the new bearing will slip right over it and all is well again.

 

I've also done this with torches and you can get surprisingly clean cuts from two different metals next to each other but I would try the cutoff wheel first if she won't budge.



#8 KFhunter

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Posted 31 July 2020 - 06:43 PM

I did what mike10 suggested and it worked like a champ, got that flange outta there now I'm ready to remove the roller.  

 

It needed it, the plastic holding the balls in place was already in chunks, so just pried out the pieces then rolled all the balls to the top, dropped the shaft, now all the balls are out and all I have is a stuck race on a shaft.   been there done that.  

 

 

but I guess I need to do the same to the opposite side as well in order to get the roller out,  it's a 2 for 1 deal. 

 

 

now I gotta chase part #s and wait for shipping...gonna be a week! 


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#9 KFhunter

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Posted 31 July 2020 - 06:45 PM

I had difficulty with that collar that sits up against the flange,  screwed in a bolt same thread size as the allen set screw then tapped the collar back and forth spinning it,  then it broke free and eventually slipped off.  


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#10 mike10

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Posted 31 July 2020 - 09:07 PM

That is what the other hole in the collar is for.  Using a punch in the hole to rotate the collar to unlock the collar.  On assy use the punch to tighten the collar on the bearing.  Tighten in the direction the roll rotates.  The only reason for rotating the collar that way is you always know which direction to rotate the collar  to unlock the collar.  This is the way NH installs the collars and I would think it is standard procedure for others.


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#11 dvcochran

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Posted 01 August 2020 - 10:12 PM

If you are lucky you can turn it enough to put a puller on the bolt tabs. That flange has a ledge or ring on the back that recesses into the frame. You can't easily cut the flange so I would pop the seals out and melt the cage out. Then you can hopefully get the balls out of the bearing so the flange will slide off. Then put a puller on the race.

Beat me to it. I would add I have always had better luck blowing out the ball bearings because the are super hard and cut easily. And you have a flange on the shaft if you need an edge to pry on. Clean up the shaft apply a little head and the inner races usually come off easy. 

Does that look like a standard flange on the bearing to you? I think it looks different from what I remember. 



#12 KFhunter

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Posted 07 August 2020 - 05:24 PM

I cut the inner bearing race off the shaft with a torch, I went up the key way and it went very easy.  Then I rested a chisel in the keyway and split the bearing enough to slide it off.  

 

So I never did have to take out the belts or remove the roller 

 

 

now I got the new bearing in the flange, but it spins and flips around inside the flange.  the bearing turns stiff enough that I think it would spin inside the flange and have a melt down.  did my flange stretch out too much?   

 

I tried to punch in the recessed collar to make it grab the outer bearing race, but it isn't working.   You can spin and flip aorund the bearing inside the flange, and even spin it all the way around so it is reversed.  

 

Also there's nothing to force the grease inside the small holes in the new bearing, it'll just spit out the backside inside the baler.   



#13 KFhunter

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Posted 07 August 2020 - 07:05 PM

That is what the other hole in the collar is for.  Using a punch in the hole to rotate the collar to unlock the collar.  On assy use the punch to tighten the collar on the bearing.  Tighten in the direction the roll rotates.  The only reason for rotating the collar that way is you always know which direction to rotate the collar  to unlock the collar.  This is the way NH installs the collars and I would think it is standard procedure for others.

 

It looks like the new bearing doesn't have a collar on it,  all one piece with two allen set screws. 



#14 KFhunter

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Posted 07 August 2020 - 07:07 PM

I think I screwed up the flange,  didn't realize you drop the bearing in the slot, then rotate into place.   I pressed it in from the backside like an idiot and stretched it out.   Tried to ping back in the skirt,  but I got a new flange coming

 

 

:wacko:



#15 KFhunter

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Posted 07 August 2020 - 07:11 PM

Is there anywhere I can get a better picture than this garbage?

 

That washer #14 wasn't behind the bearing when I pulled the race with a torch

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#16 Gearclash

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Posted Yesterday, 08:17 AM

I think you are referring to a “housing” by the term flange.  Seems like 99% of the time if I need to replace a self aligning bearing in a solid housing, the housing is worn and needs to be replaced as well.  



#17 broadriverhay

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Posted Yesterday, 10:50 AM

Sorry I’m just seeing this post. Those bearings roll in a concave so it can compensate for misalignment.

#18 KFhunter

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Posted Yesterday, 11:36 AM

Well, I cleaned it up really good and pounded on the skirt a good bit trying to shrink it up some,  gonna slap it on and go roll hay.  

 

 

 

 

 I've got it so the bearing isn't spinning in the housing now rather than spinning the bearing itself as it should.  



#19 KFhunter

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Posted Yesterday, 11:40 PM

found another bearing going out on the netwrap belt roller, preventing the small netwrap belts to spin, thus it wouldn't feed the net.

That sucked




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