617 new holland disc mower - Machinery - HayTalk - Hay & Forage Community

Jump to content




Photo
- - - - -

617 new holland disc mower


  • Please log in to reply
9 replies to this topic

#1 farmer dave

farmer dave

    Newbie

  • Members
  • 15 posts
  • Locationmid missouri

Posted 22 July 2020 - 09:51 PM

I have a 617 new Holland disc mower. Some of the blades get the ends knock off. If you turn over by hand it doesn't look like their is any way the blades could hit. Could blades be getting ding up if mower get bogged down and slows down or do I have something wore out?

 

                                              Thanks David



#2 r82230

r82230

    Hay Master

  • Members
  • 3381 posts
  • LocationThumb of Michigan

Posted 23 July 2020 - 06:51 AM

Perhaps the dumbest questions today, but are you mowing in a stony area by chance? And how close to the ground are you trying to cut?

 

Larry



#3 Tx Jim

Tx Jim

    Hay Master

  • Members
  • 3945 posts
  • LocationCoyote Flats,Texas

Posted 23 July 2020 - 07:04 AM

Do your blade carriers line up(time) in a pattern that resembles an "H"?  Hitting solid obstacles can affect blade carrier timing. Does your cutter have "shock hubs"?



#4 mike10

mike10

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 2298 posts
  • LocationSouthern Indiana

Posted 23 July 2020 - 07:09 AM

Taking a guess but suspect the knives are hitting on the first and second discs.  When you have two discs turning  the same direction next to each other the timing is more critical to keep the knives from hitting each other.  You can not turn the first disc to judge timing, since unlike a discbine, the first disc is being driven by the drive module next to the first disc instead of a drive shaft directly.  You must turn the main gearbox so all the backlash is taken up like when the mower is being driven.

 

Install new knives and pull them straight out.  Turn the gearbox and watch when the knives cross closest to each other at the rear of the cutterbar and the front of the cutterbar.  You want the gap to be the as close to the same as possible.  To change the timing, remove the first disc and the center bolt holding the drive hub to the module.  Turn the gearbox so the second disc is pointing straight forward.  Remove the first disc hub and turn the hub so the bolt holes in the hub are pointing straight down the cutterbar.  There are basically four positions the hub can be installed so the holes point down the cutterbar.  Find the set of holes that do this.  Before installing a NEW center bolt, put the disc back on and turn the gearbox to check the timing.  If still off, then try a different set of hole that line up to the cutter bar..

.  

To check the timing of the rest of the discs, you can use the first disc to turn the cutterbar, just not between the first and second disc.

 

edit.  I need to add to turn the discs in the direction they turn when in operation.


  • dvcochran likes this

#5 dvcochran

dvcochran

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • 316 posts
  • LocationMiddle Tennessee

Posted 23 July 2020 - 08:28 AM

Like others have said, make sure the timing is correct from spindle to spindle and that nothing is hitting on the machine. The discs do not have to be perpendicular to each other although that is most common configuration. Some mowers (not sure about NH)will let you configure the turtles to lay the cut grass differently. Assuming your machine is in order and nothing on the machine is the culprit a picture of your blades would really help diagnosis. Not sure what you mean by "ends knock off".

 

Are you saying the blade ends are rounded smooth? That is normal wear after cutting clean grass for a while. It is not fair to compare a disc mower blade to a bush hog blade in terms of life and durability. Disc mower blades spin faster and are much thinner.

Blades bent a little? They have been cutting/banging on something they should not have. All of us (me included) have given in to the temptation to use the mower to clean around the edges of a field at some point. You end up cutting things a disc mower is just not made to handle and damaging blades and possibly worse.. Ant/mole hills and rocks are really rough on mower blades. What/where you cut makes a huge difference.

If it was me, I would make a checklist of possible reasons and checkoff the list. 



#6 farmer dave

farmer dave

    Newbie

  • Members
  • 15 posts
  • Locationmid missouri

Posted 24 July 2020 - 10:39 PM

Sorry I haven't got back to you guys, I cut my last field last night. Didn't get home untill 9:30. You guys gave some stuff to check out. I don't know if i have shock hubs, i don't think they are. also I haven't dug in to it, but I don't see how to change timing. It seems like you the bolts can only go in at 90 degree. I looked at blades after cutting field and had no damage. I also didn't have time that I over loaded and slip drive belts. If I over load mower I can hear blades raddling, I don't know if there hitting when this happens I also what to see if it was blades that were turing same drection. It does round the end and radius outside corners. 

                                                 Thanks



#7 somedevildawg

somedevildawg

    Member

  • Members
  • 9453 posts
  • LocationTifton georgia

Posted 25 July 2020 - 06:13 AM

Sounds like normal wear, we change ours at about 70-80 acres....

#8 mike10

mike10

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 2298 posts
  • LocationSouthern Indiana

Posted 25 July 2020 - 06:58 AM

Which discs are the knives hitting.  The knives on the first two discs can hit if not fully extended even if timed properly.  That sounds like what is happening when you hear the knives hitting.  Not too likely for any of the other discs.  It also sounds like you do not have the belt tensioned to specs.  Tighten the nut until the spring is the same length as the metal spring gauge attached with the spring.



#9 farmer dave

farmer dave

    Newbie

  • Members
  • 15 posts
  • Locationmid missouri

Posted 25 July 2020 - 10:38 PM

Hey Mike

I was wondering how tight to tighten the drive belt. I didn't want to put undo pressure on bearings. I haven't seen the metal spring gauge you are talking about. I don't know if it could have been taking off before i bought it or my i don't know what i'm looking at. The last time I used it when the humidity changed and hay got tough I slip the belt several times. So I tight it up a lot, the spring is almost collapsed. works better hopefully not to tight.

 

                                                 Thanks



#10 Tx Jim

Tx Jim

    Hay Master

  • Members
  • 3945 posts
  • LocationCoyote Flats,Texas

Posted 26 July 2020 - 06:56 AM

Dave

If you don't have a 617 operator's manual I will suggest you acquire an OM & read it. OM's have wealth of valuable information that if understood could save you a lot of $$$$ on parts purchases.  Adverse belt sheave(pulley) wear &/or belt wear can cause belt to sink too deep in the "V" causing inadequate belt traction causing spring to be tightened more than engineers intended.






0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users

× Sponsors