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New Holland 275, help needed

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#1 Carl White

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Posted 18 July 2020 - 12:07 PM

Howdy all,

  My name is Carl and I am new to not only this forum but to hay baling. Quick back round, I have been a auto mechanic and fabricator for the last 20 years, I was given two horses for my daughters and have 10 acres of grass hay I am cutting to feed them. I bought a NH 275 that I was told is out of time. I followed the instructions in the service manual and believe It is in time as I can rotate by hand with no needles installed and it appears all is well and the crankshaft shear pin plate moves out of the way at the correct time. The issue I am having is when I install the needles and run through the cycle, the needles bind into the knotter heads and I mean bind hard. the tip of the needle is supposed to be 1/8' clear of the [round plate]? and my needles are hitting it so hard I can not puch it through the cycle without feeling like I am going to break the needles so i stop and back it up then I have to re-time it again. The needle adjustment with the 4 bolts on the carriage is fully adjusted, I am thinking the carriage is bent but I do not see anything obvious and cant talk myself into how it bent. Is there something I am missing? can I remove the carriage and bent it so the needles will clear, that seems to me not a good idea? thanks for any help. Carl

#2 r82230


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Posted 18 July 2020 - 12:25 PM

First what you might be calling a carriage is called a yoke in my neck of the woods and I sure hope it's not sprung.  Have you watched this really old video?  If not I would suggest that you do some great knowledge about knotters can be learned.


Now back to your problem, if I understand right you are saying you can't adjust the needles to where they just rub their way through the knotter, is this a correct assumption?  And if so there is no more adjustment available?


Hopefully with these questions answer, Mike10 will be along, because I'd say your yoke is definitely sprung and IDK if that is something that can be straighter very easily. 



#3 mike10


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Posted 18 July 2020 - 01:39 PM

The problem is not timing related.  Since the needles were out, I am going to take a guess and say the needles had been broken.  Depending on what part of the tying cycle the needles were broken, damage can be done to the needle mounts on the yoke.  If only the front third of the needles break, then there will not be any damage done to the yoke, but if the needles break right at the needle mount, then the mounting tabs bend upwards and you end up with the problem you have.


It is fixable, but will take some trial and error to get it right.  Remove the needles and disconnect the rod coming down from the knotter stack from the yoke.  The yoke pivots on two mounts which are held to the bale case with four bolts on each side.  Remove those bolts, swing the yoke forward and slide the mounts down until the yoke is free.


Find a level concrete floor and stand the yoke up so the needle mounting tabs are supporting the yoke.  If the twine guide in the corner of the yoke is against the floor, then place 2x4s under the needle mounting tabs.  You want the yoke to be resting on the tabs only.  Lean the yoke back slightly and take a hammer and hit the lower tab to bend it down about 1/4”.  Now hit the top tab down.  I use the needle to gauge how far to hit the top tab down.  The needle should just be able to slide in.  

Since the mounting tabs are no longer parallel with each other the yoke will wobble back and forth on the blocks.  Hit the lower tab on the second needle mount and bend it down so both needle tabs set flat on the blocks.  Using the needle as a gauge hit the second needle top tab down,


Install the yoke and the needles and see if you moved the tabs enough to get your clearance.  If not then go through the process again.  

Check that there are no cracked welds on the tabs, if so weld the cracks.


If the needles had been broken you need to do more investigating so as not to repeat the failure.  If the needle safety latch is working the needles should not have broken.  When needles break at the mounts the initial cause is usually one of the billhook pinion gears jumped time.  This will shear the knotter shear bolt which leaves the needles in the chamber.  A functioning needle latch will prevent the needles from being broken.  I have also seen people pull out the safety latch, restart the baler and then they hear a loud bang.  


Be sure to adjust the knotter stack endplay.  

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#4 Carl White

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Posted 18 July 2020 - 09:27 PM

thank you both and yes the needles where broke when i bought it, broke in two spots, both of them. the first break 8 inches from the tip and the second another 8 inches beyond the previous break. i will take the yoke out and measure and will report back. again thank you!

#5 Carl White

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Posted 22 July 2020 - 11:56 AM

Well, I tried to straighten the yoke, but the tube cracked. I was able to find a replacement so when that comes in I will let you know how it goes. Thanks again.

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