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Transmission work on the MX150


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#1 Gearclash

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Posted 07 September 2019 - 08:57 PM

The forward clutch started dragging on this tractor. Hydraulic pressure test verified that there was zero pressure on the F circuit in neutral so that almost certainly means the forward clutch is burned and warped. So now we get to do a rear trans split to renew the F clutch, most likely do the R clutch at the same time. I will try to post pictures as I go.

#2 Gearclash

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Posted 07 September 2019 - 09:00 PM

Rear end on blocks for now and wheels are off. In their infinite wisdom CIH chose to use a unicorn metric thread for the stand mounting holes on the bottom of the transmission housings. I am waiting for bolts to come, then I can get the rear end on stands.
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#3 Ox76

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Posted 08 September 2019 - 08:26 AM

Geez, what a nightmare.  I'll be following you on your horrible journey.  I wish you luck.



#4 stack em up

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Posted 08 September 2019 - 09:52 AM

Geez Gearclash, I don’t understand how you can possibly get anything repaired in that so-called “shop” without the $350,000 RV and the basketball hoop. That tractor is in the way of getting some real work done! Lol, giving you crap. I saw on NAT you were looking for those bolts but am glad you found some. Good luck on the project. Shouldn’t be baling stalks till about mid-December if my calculations are correct.

#5 paoutdoorsman

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Posted 08 September 2019 - 10:27 AM

That's a good project Gearclash.  Too bad it didn't hang in there to finish out the season for you.  What unicorn metric thread did you need?



#6 Gearclash

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Posted 08 September 2019 - 08:01 PM

That's a good project Gearclash.  Too bad it didn't hang in there to finish out the season for you.  What unicorn metric thread did you need?

Some dingbat in CIH thought it would be cool to spec M20-2.0 for the holes under the transmission housing.

 

Actually, this tractor hasn’t started the season yet.  The clutch took a dump last winter and I have finally started on it.  Will need it in 6 weeks or so.



#7 Gearclash

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Posted 09 September 2019 - 08:32 AM

Geez Gearclash, I don’t understand how you can possibly get anything repaired in that so-called “shop” without the $350,000 RV and the basketball hoop. That tractor is in the way of getting some real work done! Lol, giving you crap. I saw on NAT you were looking for those bolts but am glad you found some. Good luck on the project. Shouldn’t be baling stalks till about mid-December if my calculations are correct.

Hah, ya, not much in the way of fancy here.  Building needs quite a bit of work yet and I’m already about 20 grand into it.  Some people on agtalk are daft.  They either think you need a half million dollar shop if you want to change oil in your lawnmower or they think having a $5,000 dollar shack to fix things in is a sinful luxury.


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#8 slowzuki

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Posted 09 September 2019 - 09:53 AM

M20-2 is one of the two normal fine pitch threads for metric, used in Europe and UK. The other fine pitch is 1.5 which I think is more common in Japan, China etc

Some dingbat in CIH thought it would be cool to spec M20-2.0 for the holes under the transmission housing.

Actually, this tractor hasn’t started the season yet. The clutch took a dump last winter and I have finally started on it. Will need it in 6 weeks or so.



#9 Gearclash

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Posted 09 September 2019 - 10:30 AM

M20-1.5 is far easier to come by in the US than M20-2.0. Almost every supplier that lists M20-2.0 doesn’t have it in stock. I just ordered some from McMaster-Carr, hopefully they are the right thing.

#10 slowzuki

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Posted 09 September 2019 - 03:16 PM

We have more metric hardware available in Canada than in the US but still can be a pain.  Most of my bolt collection is small sizes of Japanese fine thread metric, which is useless working on anything but Japanese cars it seems.  

 

EDIT And my big buckets of heavy equipment metric hardware that is European thread.  Bought out a shop that was closing and got 200 lbs of mixed metric bolts.  Leaves me with a bit hole between m12 and about m18 sizes where you have to try 5 stores to find a fastener in stock.



#11 Gearclash

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Posted 09 September 2019 - 10:02 PM

Fuel tank off and some other stuff off. Cleaned about 5 lbs of crap off the trans housings. Really not a bad job so far.
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#12 paoutdoorsman

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Posted 10 September 2019 - 07:11 AM

Good work Gearclash.  I need to post updates to my project as well.  I just pulled the trans on my JD 7420 last week.  Quite a different process.



#13 Gearclash

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Posted 10 September 2019 - 10:06 PM

Good work Gearclash.  I need to post updates to my project as well.  I just pulled the trans on my JD 7420 last week.  Quite a different process.

I would like to see pictures and commentary of your project.  What was the problem with it?



#14 paoutdoorsman

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Posted 11 September 2019 - 07:23 AM

I would like to see pictures and commentary of your project.  What was the problem with it?

 

I'll get some posted soon.  IVT trans with the C1 clutches toasted.  The previous owner put oversized tires on the front, took out the MFWD and subsequently overheated/starved the trans of fluid.



#15 Gearclash

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Posted 11 September 2019 - 09:50 PM

Hydraulic oil drained, on stands, a few things to disconnect yet then time to split.
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There is a sizable access plate in the floor of these cabs.
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#16 slowzuki

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Posted 12 September 2019 - 10:37 AM

Obviously not your first rodeo with that splitting stand!



#17 Gearclash

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Posted 12 September 2019 - 01:03 PM

Obviously not your first rodeo with that splitting stand!

Actually it is. Just made it for this deal.  I haven’t done a split  like this before either.



#18 slowzuki

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Posted 12 September 2019 - 01:37 PM

Well nice job planning, lots of home splitting gear not near as thought out.

#19 r82230

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Posted 12 September 2019 - 03:31 PM

Obviously not your first rodeo with that splitting stand!

I thought the same thing, BTW, nice looking sit up Gear.

 

Larry



#20 Gearclash

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Posted 12 September 2019 - 10:04 PM

And it is apart. Looks like I have to remove the bearing carrier from range transmission yet. Also noticed a cracked hydraulic pipe in the speed trans that needs to be checked out. Another problem that needs to be fixed is the rear axle seals. One seeps a little, the other leaks badly. I think I am going to pull the axle assy off and have another shop do that as these are flange axles and the axle and housing have to be disassembled to replace the seals. I’m not sure I can get the bearing preload set right if I do it my self.
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