Three44's you are lucky to find all of those parts don't forget to share. LOL when your guru was telling you about shimming the left pulley did he say anything about doing the same on the right side pulleys? I was looking at mine and wondered if it will help to put a washer on the right side may have to take it apart to do it but looks like it wouldn't hurt to put a washer in it to close the sheaves together like on the left side,as the sheaves wear they get wider and maybe this will help also,and greasing those movable sheaves I always grease them like the book says but not sure about how much grease to put on them dont want it come out and get on the belt,what was his advice on that? Thanks and Happy Thanksgiving to all
New Holland self propelled baler
Posted 23 November 2017 - 11:30 AM
I forgot to ask who was that on here that said and showed pictures of the hydrostatic drive he put on a selfpropelled baler and wish he would tell us more about how he did it and what did he get the hydrostatics off of to put on his baler,seems like that would be the way to go
Posted 24 November 2017 - 12:41 AM
There are times I wish you were not as far away as you are but when I think about my growing parts inventory I realize I might have to sleep with them .... lol!
He said just the left side for the washer trick. But I will ask him again as I will be seeing him in the near future as we still have the big loads to retrieve from his old place ... one of which is that 1425 he is giving me.
He believes in just one pump per splined shaft but his frequency is about every 600 bales for the entire baler. I have been more erratic on how many pumps and probably average 2-3 pumps each and my interval is more up around 1000 bales. I have not had any belt slippage except when a bearing was failing in the clutch housing and no grease on my belt yet.
As I recall you have new parts on yours and that makes a difference. As such your space for grease is less. I would consider a grease like Lucas or Power Punch with their high level of tackifier to make them stay betters a good investment. The guru swears by either of those two greases.
HALLSHAY was the member who had a SP that they converted to hydrostatic. He missed us asking for details. Look at the old thread I started on SP balers last year and he responded on page 1.
Over in Seattle WA there is a specialty shop that rebuilds splined shafts. I have been planning on contacting them about the varidrives what it would take to build or repair any of those components and also to build converter shafts to hook a hydrostatic trans to them as an alternative to fixing belt systems. I would hate to modify a vari drive shaft to run the pump or a motor and thus lose it for it’s original intent. A converter makes more sense in the long run.
I have a project I want to try and it will necessitate pulling a trailer of some yet to determined weight and I figure that a varidrive will not takethat added load with even the best of care and especially on our slope, hence the quest for a couple of my SP balers to be converted. I have two hydro systems from the guru. One is the entire pump and motor set up from a Heston 6550 swather. The second and likely the easiest of the two is the hydrodrive off a NH SP forage chopper.
Are you likely to get that 1283 or do you know yet?
Happy Thanksgiving to you as well and to all the members of Hay Talk
Posted 24 November 2017 - 08:55 PM
Thanks for the information,I can't believe he is giving you that 1425 you are one lucky person guess the good lord is happy with you. Yeah I am going to get that 1283 my friend is supposed to go on thursday and he said he would be here on saturday,I just cant wait!
Posted 24 November 2017 - 11:22 PM
He sold the knotter to me for $150. The varidrive is complete.
I have the twin to this machine in a pull type (425) complete. Those two machines, his 1425 and our 425 are made with a needle spread 8.5” that falls into a narrow serial number range. So my plunger should fit and that also means that I have two knotters that would fit it as well.
Congrats on getting that 1283 soon! In the stuff we hauled off from the guru’s stuff there are several dry type air filter housings. From those I am going to pick one to add to the 1283 I am running for pre-filtering the cab air. I plan on adding a booster fan as well between the added filter and the filter inside the cab. I also will pull the cab air from a point somewhat higher than the roof line. I already added supplemental door gasket material to reduce dust leaking in.
I am glad I added the air ride seat this year and if I did not have the 12v air compressor that my wife’s family was about to throw away, I would buy the Harbor Frieght unit for peanuts in a heart beat. I average running my compressor about fifteen seconds every four days. No kidding!
Posted 26 November 2017 - 10:57 AM
This 1283 that I ak getting has the air conditioner on top of the cab which I guess was added later,I dont know much about it until it gets here I will have to check it out and see why it was added but maybe it is better for all the dust. Where did you find the door molding is it just regular automotive molding?
Posted 26 November 2017 - 08:40 PM
I am wondering if your AC unit is an old Kaiser unit?
The factory AC for these balers as far as I know had the evaporator inside and up against the roof of the cab. The condenser was mounted on top of the hood over the top of the engine and it had it’s own 12v fan to move air through it. The pump was under the cab on the SP frame and was belt driven from the “live shaft” that runs forward to the baler.
The 1426 was an exception in that my understanding is that the condenser was relocated to in front of the radiator.
In our area there are a lot of these balers that might have an evaporative cooler and a heater. We can have some pretty chilly conditions at night or spring and fall and most of the time our hot weather is also low humidity.
I am gathering AC components, both OEM and others and plan on getting those and some heaters going as well on as many of our SP’s as I can.
The door gasket material that I used thus far is a thin self adhering foam strip and I have only augmented my old door stripping.
I have located regular door gasket material but took the above short cut route for now.
Posted 27 November 2017 - 08:26 PM
I will know more about it this weekend when he gets it here. Been working on a 912 speedrower trying to get it working it has been setting for about 8 years the engine throwed a rod and I am checking everything out first before spending the money on the engine and the hydrostiatic not be working thinking about pulling the engine out of the ford 5000 and putting it in the 912 to see if the rest of it is good. Do yall run any of the self propelled haybines in your part of the world? Nobody down here does they all use the disc mowers mostly 3 pt,I am going to post on here and see if anybody still runs them
Posted 27 November 2017 - 08:36 PM
I know of two of the SP haybines (I believe we are talking the same machine) in our area and they may be sitting. A haybine is the machine without an auger? A reel and a wide conditioner but that’s it?
Posted 06 December 2017 - 11:07 AM
Well I finally got the 1283 it looks to be in good shape need to tune up the engine and do some adjustments on the baler,luckily it is twine tie but it looks like it was originally wire and of course it needs a lot of tender loving care which it will get. I am going to try it out first see what all it needs then cut the chamber down to the 14 * 18 THOSE 16 * 18 are just too heavy,the air conditioner on top is not factory and it looks like it didnt have a air conditioner from the factory and this one was installed later I havent a name on it yet but worry about the ac later,I think the 1282 got jealous because the 1283 is getting all the attention LOL
Posted 06 December 2017 - 11:54 AM
Be sure and check that cable guard!
If you need any advise on your AC maybe I can help some but I am sure there are folks on the forum that know a LOT more than I do.
Posted 08 December 2017 - 11:07 AM
Thanks Three44s somebody has changed that cable to the old style bar like used on the 282,I like that a lot better the baler has been run hard but put up dry not much rust like down here in our humid climate,I like buying equipment from north or west where the equipment doesnt sit in the rain and humid climates like it is here s lot of good stuff goes bad because of the wet climate. Might have to have some advice on the air condition when I get to that part. Thanks
Posted 08 December 2017 - 08:07 PM
I have first dibs on the guru’s current baler, a pto twine 283 when he fully retires.
It is a real cream puff .... I mean seriously it is in stellar shape as it has not done much and it would make a good replacement for the baler to replace the one on the 1283 that I call Orville.
Oriville’s baler is the roughest of all six of my SP’s. Oriville (the person) was not a mechanic nor a maintainer, he was a true cowboy and the machine he used to own that I named after him show it. Also Orville has had a LOT of hay run through it.
We have nearly finished hauling off the stuff from the guru’s place. There are some more goodies he wants us to take out of his shop. I spoke for his complete valve grinding machine already for a good price. I am glad we have all the big loads out of the way before we get slick roads.
The first big one was his Ford Coe 750 with a good 20 ft bed. He bought it for the engine and trans. and drove it home. He used the motor ... a 391 in his harrowbed and was going to use the 5 sp trans there but has not yet and might sell it to me instead. I have a Clark 285 (5 sp) already though.
Dad had a C600 for a number of years when I was a kid. He sold it and lately I have had a funny hankering for one to “play with”. On my route to and from town I pass by one and threaten to stop and check out the for sale sign but the guru removed that temptation by giving me this 750.
Second was the 1425 baler. This morning we made two trips, a fast one with a bunch of wheel line torque tubes with western ends and the final one with a parts swather, a Hesston I bought primarily for the hydrostatic drive works but also for a nice cab for whatever?
All in all, for the prices he sold some particularly more valuable items for and gave me a lot of simularily valuable items but hard to sell like the stuff for these SP balers, I have done very well and the guru is very pleased to boot. We helped each other as his (sold) property is to be cleared out by the end of this month and now he is within striking distance of his goal.
Posted 10 December 2017 - 12:11 PM
That is a find there to find a 283 in that kind of shape,The 283 werent real good on bale shape here anyway so a trick I came up with that I do on all my balers that have that kind of feeding system including the 282 is I take out the big spring in the aluminum square bar and put it back together and drill a hole through it and the round bar that telescopes and make it solid so it cant telescope what happens is the spring gets weak and the bar telescopes too much and not get enough of hay in the left side and this does help a lot here anyway where we mostly bale bermuda grass,if you try it be sure you know how to take that spring out safely because it will hurt you if you dont know how to do it,I am going to take the spring out of the 1283 as soon as I can get to it
Posted 10 December 2017 - 12:17 PM
I got a 66 C60 chevy truck that was under a barn and got it running and it is in good shape but be extra careful with those widow maker wheels nobody around here will fix them so I done it myself put them back on the truck and chained them and then aired them up standing out of the way they are dangerous,they say dont air them up if they are low without a lot of precautions hate for something to happen to you and all those selfpropelled go to the junk yard because I am too far away to come get them,I told my wife and kids if something happens to me to be sure that all my New Holland stuff goes to a good home and not the JUNKYARD!
Posted 12 December 2017 - 12:09 AM
I think all of our balers later than our 282 are running solid bars or have been converted to them.
I don’t know about the wheels on that old Ford cabover but they are likely the old split rims you are referring to.
Thanks for looking out for me, I need all the help I can get .... lol!
I’ll have to leave implicit instructions with my nephews if they decide to carry on after I check out that if they decide to ditch my SP balers at some point, that they are to register on this forum and contact member nhbaler282 at once!
Posted 12 December 2017 - 09:11 PM
Oh yeah,tell them to contact me just might to have a parade of selfpropelled balers making a trip frpm washington state all the way to east texas. I have been doing some thinking about a hydro on the 1283 I wish HayHall would chime in and tell us what he used and how he done it
Posted 12 December 2017 - 11:23 PM
That ought to make “the papers”. .... LOL!!
Posted 12 December 2017 - 11:33 PM
Getting the speed right on the hydraulic motor is the key and having enough torque.
An accurate tach reading on the engine would give one a great starting point because figuring the speed inputted to the clutch is just a bit of algebra then.
If you’ve got an orbit motor turning in the ball park of the RPM of those shieves of the varidrive, that would be golden.
Posted 13 December 2017 - 06:26 AM
The last time I recall a NH SP baler in the newspaper was in New Zealand about 20 years ago. Some bloke who lived up the top of the North Island bought a 166 at the bottom of the South Island and drove it home.
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