21 replies to this topic

[Farmerbrown2]

I have a 1965 John Deere 4020 that has been sitting for about 12 years because clutch was slipping . So I threw batteries in it and it starts right up just like it had been shut off 10 minutes ago . So I split the tractor to look into the clutch and it appears that trans oil is every where . Now can I change oil seal without splitting clutch housing from trans or do I have to go further my I T manual says I do but some things on the net say I don't. Any wisdom would be appreciated.

[Tx Jim]

IIRC as it's been a long time since I've seen a 4020 split I think all you need to replace is the seal(parts key 30) which slip on the end of pto drive shaft(parts key 32) from clutch side. Are you sure engine rear main seal isn't leaking? I presumed you were referring to a tractor with a SR trans.

  AR26481   Seal - SEAL,OIL ADD 19.51 USD   

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[Farmineer95]

The seal on the end of the splined end can be changed. Think there is a driver tool deere has. Might look to rent it from dealer. Check pto brake actuator and oring too.
Thinking the other seal can be changed too from clutch split but its been awhile. Think the fork and throwout bearing guide come off and seal is in backside??

[Farmerbrown2]

Thanks guys . Dry by crank shaft output shaft is wet . I would think every thing would be black if it was engine oil. Yes it is a SR. .

[Farmerbrown2]

Update I got a look at JD service manual I have to split it at trans.

[Ranger518]

I know this is a old thread but also know everybody that commented is still active members. I have a 4010 that has also been leaking oil into the clutch housing and last year when I rebuilt the engine I replaced the rear main seal and the seal 32 on tx Jim’s post but I kinda figured it was the seal that is farther back in the trans case but I can’t for the life of me find it on the parts digraph or in my repair manual. Also will I need to do the double split or can I get away with just splitting it at the trans?

[Tx Jim]

IIRC seal(key 13) is the one you're searching for.

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[Ranger518]

IIRC seal(key 13) is the one you're searching for.

Thanks I could not find it for anything In my book or online. Any idea if I can just split it at the transmission or if i will still need to do the double split to replace the seal?

[Tx Jim]

You're welcome

IIRC replacing that seal requires a double split BUT it's been many yrs since I witnessed that happening.

[Ranger518]

[quote name="Tx Jim" post="1016044" timestamp="1613755688"]

You're welcome
IIRC replacing that seal requires a double split BUT it's been many yrs since I witnessed that happening.[/quote

Thanks. That’s what I was afraid of. O well not like it is that big of a job to split it at the clutch housing not sure about the trans side but does not look like to bad of a job.

[Farmerbrown2]

It’s not that bad of a job just make sure you remove the bolt inside the transmission on the shifter rail. I didn’t realize that bolt also held things together.
Another thing is make sure the rubber boot on the pto linkage is good I think some of my oil in clutch housing was getting in that way also. My steering motor was leaking pretty bad I put a new boot on and afterwards oil ran down side of housing.

[Ranger518]

It’s not that bad of a job just make sure you remove the bolt inside the transmission on the shifter rail. I didn’t realize that bolt also held things together.
Another thing is make sure the rubber boot on the pto linkage is good I think some of my oil in clutch housing was getting in that way also. My steering motor was leaking pretty bad I put a new boot on and afterwards oil ran down side of housing.

Good deal yea my boot is no good I don’t have any leaks in the dash any more after getting my steering motor rebuilt a few years ago. I know the trans seal is leaking I could tell when I had tractor split last year but the other trans seal and rear main seal was also leaking so I figured it would help out but guess it is leaking worse the I thought o well I will get to it as soon as I find the time I’m just trying to figure out what was involved in getting it fixed because I can’t stand leaks.

[TJ Hendren]

TXJim since seals are being talked about here is there anyway to reduce the frequency of those dad blamed rock shaft seals from having to be replaced every couple of years?

[Tx Jim]

TJ

When you state RS seals I'll guess you're referring to L/D shaft seals located in lower trans case. If I'm correct there has been a major improvement in L/D shaft seals in the last few yrs. Have you tried the bushings with a groove that o-ring fits into made by Bolings Machine shop?

[Ranger518]

Yea my lode controll shaft seals are leaking a little and I have plans on using the bolings machine ship bushings with o-rings.

[Farmerbrown2]

So Bolings fix is the best for load shaft fix?

[Ranger518]

So Bolings fix is the best for load shaft fix?

I don’t know I have never used them but I have heard nothing but good things about them. So I have plans to install a set pretty soon with a new shaft also.

https://www.ebay.com...QgAAMXQLs5RsjQ6

[Wethay]

They say the way you knew there was, or had been, oil in a Harley was to look underneath it. Although I like green tractors, like the Harley it seems that for several years and models if it was green and if it had Hydraulic oil, it had some under it. 

[Tx Jim]

Bolings bushing design is light yrs ahead of JD original type 4020 L/D seals. When I served as a JD dealer service manager I always wondered what JD engineers were smoking when they designed the original 10 & 20 series rowcrop L/D seals. How a flat metal ring ever seals on a round shaft has been a mystery to me!  I've seen several of the original seals installed backwards. 

[Tx Jim]

I don’t know I have never used them but I have heard nothing but good things about them. So I have plans to install a set pretty soon with a new shaft also.

 

Why not get them from Bolings @ $55 for less than 1/2 price of Fleabay? 

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