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JD 347 knotter problems

5K views 12 replies 4 participants last post by  Trotwood2955 
#1 ·
Another knotter issues thread. Been having issues with the knotters on a 347 twine baler. Started last year in first cutting, didn't seem as bad or do it at all in second. Now this year has gotten progressively worse and acting up in second cutting also.

The knots on both side have some of the twine doubled back through and some bales will break as you get them off the chute to stack on the wagon. I wasn't sure if it was the knot coming apart or the twine actually breaking. Based on looking at some of the twine that came off the busted bales, looks like the twine is actually breaking most of the time and the knot staying together.

The twine doubled back through the knot is on every bale. The twine breaking is only 1-2 out of 20 or so bales, but last year was only 1-2 out of 100 or so.

Attached some pictures of what it is doing, and also of the billhooks and the bend in the knife arm. Do the billhooks look too worn or out of spec? And there are grooves cut into the bend on the knife arms - can this be filed or smoothed down again?

Based on looking through the troubleshooting in the manual, looks like these are the things to start with, but wanted to get ideas from you all. Thanks.
 

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#2 ·
Before getting too far into changing things, are your knives razor sharp and I would polish up those bill hook with some emery cloth. It looks like maybe your baler sits outside year round? I've had trouble with twine hanging up on the rough spots on the billhooks before.
 
#5 · (Edited by Moderator)
I should say I'm not a pro at knotters like some folks on here! Most of the problems I've run into have been knife/bill hook roughness or needle adjustments to fix where the twine is being laid in the twine disc.

So like everyone, we tend to try and solve problems like the ones we've faced before.
 
#7 ·
The twine disc timing on my 336 is a little bit off but I was able to cheat by running the needles a little closer. I think the book says 1/8" clearance to the needle tips but it wouldn't tie at that, had to set it to less than a piece of paper.

That one knot that is tied looks like a twine disk timing problem to me. The book should have a pretty good description on that adjustment and it aint fun if it has the original components.
 
#8 ·
I'll check over the twine disc timing tonight. I'm sure everything has been apart, but it's been awhile. We had it gone over by the dealership when we bought it years ago and haven't had to do much to it since. Shame stuff just won't run forever without any adjustments or fixes :)
 
#9 ·
In the last 20 years it having been to the dealer to be gone over doesn't carry much weight. Chances are they didn't touch the knotters. Very very few dealer have a competent knotter guy. There is one 70 year old local mechanic that does everyones knotter work around here.

I'll check over the twine disc timing tonight. I'm sure everything has been apart, but it's been awhile. We had it gone over by the dealership when we bought it years ago and haven't had to do much to it since. Shame stuff just won't run forever without any adjustments or fixes :)
 
#10 ·
I know what you mean. If I knew any mechanics good with these things I'd be having them come over in person and working on it, while I stood and watched and asked questions.

When we had it at the dealer, it was actually worked on by "the old guy" who was their square baler expert and could fix anything. He retired not long after that...
 
#11 ·
I do not know anything about JD balers quirks, but with a NH I would make sure the twine knife is sharp, which you have, and increase the tension on the twine holders. When the knife moves across the billhook it can pull more twine out of the twine disc than has aready been pulled out by the billhook. You might also try tightening the bill hook roller tension so it holds the knot longer when the knife arms moves across it. There is nothing wrong with a bow knot except for looks. The MF balers with the sure tie system were designed to make bow knots.

Your twine breakage is casued by too much pressure on the twine from the bale. The weakest point on the twine is at the base of the knot because of the twisting is has gone through. With yours I would also look at the knife arm for a sharp corner in the gullet of the arm. ;Usually if it is a problem with sharp corners the other bales, that did not pop, should show evidence of that by having some cut strands
 
#13 ·
Well, went over everything as best I could. Couldn't find any sharp edges or corners other than the groove worn down into the bend of the knife arm. Filed that down and took emery cloth to everything and cleaned it up good. Put brand new twine knives on, old ones were still sharp but nicked up in places and getting wore. Also switched and tried some 9600 plastic twine just to see if that would work better in it.

Finally got some decent weather over the weekend to get some more second cut done. Baler cranked out 1000+ bales and didn't miss a single tie, so I'm happy.

I also think my twine discs are slightly out of adjustment based on specs in the manual. The right side more than the left side, and the right side was giving me the most trouble before. But since it worked well after the other changes I am leaving it alone for now.

Sure isn't bad to square bale when the weather is nice, hay is thick and everything works right. Thanks everybody for the help!
 

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