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man I regret using rim guard/tube filled rear tires.

116K views 30 replies 17 participants last post by  Derf8671 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
What a mess and expensive to fix. This is my second tube failure. I have Firestone on the rear with tubes. Tubes are filled with "Rim Guard" (beet juice). When a tube lets go, the rim guard starts to leak into the tire, then the rim guard leaks out around the valve stem and makes a huge mess. $450 to have a tire jockey come out, suck out all the rim guard, install the new tube and refill with rim guard.

NEVER do this! Buy wheel weights, cast rims, or radials without tubes. My rear tire setup SUCKS!!!!

I think Rim Guard is fine, but don't put it in a tube.
 
#2 · (Edited by Moderator)
I've been lucky so far, only 1 flat on my rear. We only load them with water, so no big mess. Of course, we don't have to worry about them freezing down here, either.
When I had my leak I aired it up good, & left blocks under the rear so it wouldn't set down on the rim, until I could pull it.

The next day, it had come off the bead, & it was no problem for me to get the outside bead over the rim, (Leave the rim/tire on the tractor!!) get the tube drained, pulled, went to Wallyworld for a patch kit. Really surprised me how easy it was to repair. The slowest part is draining the water out, the next is re-filling. other than that I think it only took an hour or 2.

Total $ for my repair, about $15 including the gas to WW.
 
#4 ·
It was $200 here the other day, but it was just a 4 wheel assist front tire that needed the tube. No liquid.
 
#5 ·
I'll stay with the liquid ballast, thank you very much!! Cast iron @ $1.00 per lb, only when the liquid isn't enough weight! I just had 2 - 15.5x38's loaded with RimGuard for $450.00. I have 2 tractors with RimGuard, and one still on CaCl.
JMHO, Dave
 
#6 ·
Oops! sorry for the double post! musta pushed the wrong button!
 
#11 · (Edited by Moderator)
We have fluid in the rear tires of our loader tractor, will get changed out to beet juice next time we need a repair. Have the weights on the front of our MF 8160 and the front tires filled with beet juice, that 30 foot 3 point Hiniker bean planter is heavy and would rather have the front tires loaded than use the brakes every time we turn around.
 
#10 ·
Had a 18.4-34 with cacl fixed the other day. Bout crapped when I got the bill for $284. Was about half that a year ago. Only run fluid in loader tractors now. Everything else is cast if needed and with more no-till and less heavy tillage need less of that.
 
#17 ·
One more thing to keep in mind, if you have radial tires, you are taking away the added benefit of a softer riding tire by adding fluid of any kind. We use air-ride seats and not water-ride for a reason, the air is compressable and fluid is not, so reducing the air volume of the tire leads to a sharper ride.But fluid is so much cheaper that cast iron balast, some time we cheap out.
 
#28 ·
Look around for some used Olympic Weight plates like Weiders and fab up a spindle with a spider that reaches from the rim bolt holes across the center of the wheel and add weight plates for ballast. Used weight plates are cheap and heavy.

My large frame Kubota's have the cast centers and you can't have 'em......lol
 
#21 ·
Something else and I've never heard a good explanation as to why, but if you use calcium in tubeless tires your rims will look like new forever, use with a tube and even if you don't think you've ever had a leak eventually that rim will look like Swiss cheese.
 
#22 ·
Amen Marty!!! That is the main reason I don't use liquid in mine, In the past have replaced rears on 656 and AC 180 bought old and they both had rotted rims not just around the valve stem (learned on the 656 if the valve is rusted welding will delay the inevatable!) Martin
 
#24 ·
I have had two flats to repair, both with CaCl, and did it myself as not much fluid left in them

I made a promise after the second one that if I need stability, I'd look into duals

and for pushing wet snow in winter, Fluid tires is a hindrance, better traction with dry
 
#25 ·
What a mess and expensive to fix. This is my second tube failure. I have Firestones on the rear with tubes. Tubes are filled with "Rim Guard" (beet juice). When a tube lets go, the rim gaurd starts to leak into the tire, then rim gaurd leaks out around the valve stem and makes a huge mess. $450 to have a tire jockey come out, suck out all the rim gaurd, install new tube and refill with rim gaurd.
NEVER do this! Buy wheel weights, cast rims or radials without tubes. My rear tire set up SUCKS!!!!
I think Rim Gaurd is fine, but don't put it in a tube.
None of the 4 here (tractors) have loaded rears. We have a compaction issue anyway so if anything, we run cast weights on rear drive's. At least beet juice, if it leaks in the field, won't kill plants like CaCl will. Had a friend who lost a drive in a hayfield (alfalfa) and it took 3 years for the scar (dead spot) to fill in.
 
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