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Opinions On Mower Conditioners
Posted 28 February 2012 - 11:28 AM
Posted 28 February 2012 - 02:09 PM
Posted 28 February 2012 - 03:03 PM
Posted 28 February 2012 - 07:07 PM
- BIG IRON likes this
Posted 29 February 2012 - 04:20 PM
Those Hesstons are good. We ran a 1010 for a long time.Nitram is correct, they are slow compared to a disc mower but they get the job done. BigIron....wamego, Ks huh? I had some good times there. lol. Not much there but the few times I've been there it was a good time. We stayed there for baseball tournaments when we played at K-State.
Posted 29 February 2012 - 04:25 PM
Posted 29 February 2012 - 04:33 PM
- BIG IRON likes this
Posted 29 February 2012 - 08:09 PM
Posted 01 March 2012 - 03:02 PM
Posted 26 December 2012 - 03:33 PM
I can't seem to find a stand alone crimper. What if I looked around and found a MOCO that had the sickle portion, wobble box or whatever toasted. I could remove the bar and fingers and just use the wheel and rollers to do the crimping running in a second pass behind the drum.
What do you think?
Posted 26 December 2012 - 07:34 PM
Posted 26 December 2012 - 08:22 PM
I could be wrong but your going have crop bunching up unless you have a pick up device. Good luck Martin
Yes, definitely need a operating reel....or like Martin says could be trouble....maybe take the sickle bar out(slide out) and take the belt off the wobble drive. I would leave the knife guards on.....might help about getting under the cut grass.
Posted 26 December 2012 - 08:52 PM
Just be patient and keep looking around, i've have found the older guys getting out of it don't seem to care how much they get or just don't know what its all worth.
Posted 27 December 2012 - 08:13 AM
On pickup device to prevent bunching, the only thing I plan on removing is the bar and disconnecting the wobble box. The wheel and rollers will remain intact. I plan on looking at leaving the guards on or may take them off if they get in the way.
Height will be just off the ground. Stubble will be at 3+ inches and I should be able to get low enough to pick most of it up. If I miss a few stalks, no big deal (to me) as the average of the bale will be dry and can absorb the (few anticipated) overly damp stems.
On the drum mower, as said, it is two drums with a rotating wheel on the bottom of each with high tempered cutter blades (about 1" x 2.5") that pivot on a stud. The drum runs at extremely high speed and centrifugal force throws the blades out into cutting position. The bottom of the wheel is designed to run on the ground to establish a minimum cutting height. The stubble doesn't know it went over it. The windrow is fine with me as it helps me to establish a definite line between cut and uncut crop. I have an irregular field and some turns exceed 120 degrees and a sickle bar just makes a big mess. Teddering is a must with a bar.
It eliminates the problem of wet crop, crawdad mounds, fire ant mounds, rust, uneven terrain and broken sections. Takes about 5 seconds to replace a blade, you can use both sides and they cost a buck apiece; 3 per drum. Wear rate depends on terrain and crop.
As compared to a disc, they are narrower and are much more reliable because the drums are belt driven and the moving parts are the drive shaft with 2 bearings and PTO (that you have anyway) and the two bearings upon which each drum pivots . Cost less per foot also.
I have a 6' that I can easily run with my 57 PTO hp tractor. On speed, yes it will cut as fast as you can drive and stay in the seat. Compared to the problems I have had with sickle bars over the past 35 years, it's a walk in the park.
For a medium to large operation, a disc, like the JD MOCO would do a better job as it is wider, has the crimper if needed, and thus cover more area over a shorter time. But for what I do, it's perfect (and cheaper).....well, except for crimping large stems, but when I bought it I was planning on haying grass only whereas I wouldn't need the crimper.
Posted 28 December 2012 - 05:28 PM
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