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Broke my dang baler


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7 replies to this topic

#1 bowlnchamp219

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Posted 20 June 2010 - 09:57 PM

Okay well we put up 460 bales and everything was going good with our NH 475. Then the break away bolt broke. So we replaced it and we spun her around and everything was goin smoothly. So we kicked the PTO back on and the breakaway bolt broke again. So we checked everything out and we saw that one of the needles that holds the twine and takes it through the hay broke off cleanly. We took out all the hay and removed the broken needle. What would have caused this? There was nothing in the hay. Im going to NH tomorrow to buy a new needle and I dont want it to break again. Do you know what would have cause this besides parts do wear out, considering this was solid steel.

#2 aussiehayman

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Posted 21 June 2010 - 12:43 AM

I am not entirely sure what the NH balers use but all balers have a protection system for the needles, most have a 'dog' that comes in and out of the chamber when the needles are in the bale preventing the plunger from breaking the needles. I would sugest that for some reason the timing of the plunger with the needles is out and it would need to be retimed. Be very careful as when u replace the needle it may well turn over fine until it trys to tie a bale and might break another needle. With the cost of needles i would think it would be a good investment to have a NH mechanic look at it.

#3 NEHerdsman

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Posted 21 June 2010 - 08:44 AM

After replacing the shear bolt you need to make sure everything is ok by spinning it by hand as you you did, but while doing that test you also need trip the knotters and make sure they go through a complete cycle correctly. It sounds like you are out of time now, that *might* be that cause of the broken needle, but that's more likely to be a result of whatever broke the needle. When the needles come up into the chamber there's a latch that prevents the plunger from driving hay into the needles, is that's not working then timing could be the problem, if that is working then it's more like that the needle struck something when it came up the to knotters.

Those needles can be repaired, btw, new ones can be pricey!

#4 bowlnchamp219

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Posted 21 June 2010 - 05:29 PM

Yes I do believe the baler was outta time

#5 Rodney R

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Posted 22 June 2010 - 04:19 PM

We just broke one last week, and that's quite a process to have everything adjusted on the new needle - it has to 'rub' the knotters to stabilize it, but not hit them as it'll break, and it has to be positioned fore and aft just right - you really need some sort of book to make sure thei right.

Rodney

#6 amiller

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Posted 06 July 2010 - 08:51 AM

I just broke both my needles off on my JD336... tucker fingers didn't snap back properly. Can I weld the tips back on? These look like pot metal to me. How can they be repaired?

Andy

#7 sedurbin

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Posted 06 July 2010 - 09:06 AM

Many Needles have been successfully welded, many more have been unsuccessfully welded. They are made of Malleable Cast Iron or Cast Steel and can be welded with the appropriate rod. Nickel Rod would be one choice. Good Luck.

#8 amiller

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Posted 06 July 2010 - 11:34 AM

Thanks. Another (dumb) question. I've baled over 4000 bales the last couple of years with no problems. Then this weekend, was shearing flywheel bolts. Figured out that the crank stop needed adjusting - the needles were not resetting the crank stop all the way causing the crank stop to hit the plungerhead lug. Before I could fix that, the left tucker finger eyebolt got caught in the wiper arm and bend the piss out of it and also bend the shaft that moves the tuckers fingers! I cannot figure out how the crank stop issue is related to the tucker finger eyebolt issue, although I've been thinking about it for awhile. The right tucker finger eyebolt has plenty of clearance between it and the right wiper arm throughout the cycle so why does the left one hit the eyebolt? Any thoughts are greatly appreciated as are any ideas where I can find used needles.

Andy




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