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Knotter Adjustments


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8 replies to this topic

#1 DKFarms

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Posted 11 August 2008 - 11:23 AM

How do they adjust knotters at the factory when building a new baler? Do they run hay through them or use some kind of bale simulating apparatus??
I have a NH 273 that I have been troubleshooting and it's really inconvenient to do it while trying to bale hay before it rains and it's a pain in the butt to break bales and pitch fork 'em through the baler. Not to mention the mess it makes. I have used bungee cords to hold some tension on the strings to simulate a bale with some success but I am wondering if there is a better way. Any ideas? Thanks

#2 JD4755

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Posted 11 August 2008 - 06:57 PM

It kind of uses the string but i pull the string clear back tot he end of the bale chamber, and kind of hook it on the top of the chamber, gives it some tension

#3 4020man

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Posted 13 August 2008 - 10:11 PM

Are you having knotter problems right now? If you are what are they?

#4 DKFarms

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Posted 15 August 2008 - 11:32 AM

To make a long story short, I think I bought someone else's problem, which is typical of most used equipment I buy. I'm the guy that NEVER gets a good deal on used stuff, and I ALWAYS pay full retail price plus 20% when I buy new. Enough complainin'

The left side knotter never misses, ever. The knotter on the right side will tie 10, skip 2, tie 4, skip 5, tie 6, skip 6, etc, no real set pattern. When it ties, it ties a perfect knot. When it doesn't, the end that the needle delivers has no knot in it. It looks like the previous owner replaced the knife arm. I found that the string catcher would rub on the bottom of the arm on the right side only. The string arm attachment plate was almost rusted out, so I replaced it. The string arm sits lower and does not touch the knife arm now. I replaced the knife arm tension spring, and the hay dog springs. I have rotated the knotters 100 times comparing both sides and I can't see any differences in operation. The problem occurs only while baling. I have verified the measurements and adjustments as per the manual. I have examined all the things the book says when the string comes up without a knot, but everything seems to be in spec. Tried different bale tensions and string tensions, no luck. Kinda of at an impasse now, and hearing horror stories of people replacing a whole knotter sections 2 or 3 times until they get one to work, all at about $2500 a pop. I am trying to get into square baling to try and turn a little profit. Just can't make it on round bales anymore given fertilizer and fuel prices. Maybe this is a "sign", plow everything up and plant flowers.

#5 greenacres

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Posted 15 August 2008 - 04:03 PM

sounds like a billhook problem does the ball on the back side of the billhook that works the bill seem to be worn and does it seem stuck then put in a new billhook in, is the twine pulling out of the twine tension holders? What spring on the knife arm, I am not aware of any. Other than a timing problem your twine finger may not be coming around far enough, the part just below the knoter that brings the twine into the knotter that quarter turns has some adjustment. Your needel may have been replaced and they did not get it set right check home position and tie psition.

#6 4020man

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Posted 16 August 2008 - 09:39 PM

You might want to check the feeder forks. If they may not push the hay far enough into the bale chamber putting too much pressure on the right side knotter causing a mistie. I have a book here that tells how to adjust the feeder forks to correct the problem. pm me if you are interested. Also there is a guy up here that works on balers had he has dealt with this problem before and has also written a book on baler knotter repair. He will sell you a copy and I can give you his number if you are interested.

#7 DKFarms

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Posted 17 August 2008 - 06:43 PM

Thanks for the input and suggestions. As I mentioned I have turned the knotters super slow about a hundred times comparing the good side to the problem side. The string is always in exactly the same place on both sides throughout the knotting cycle. The twine fingers also move the same. I have verified the clearances in the manual and all are in spec. Nothing appears worn moreso than anything else. It always ties a good knot when turning slow. If the thing would NEVER tie a bale, it would probably be easier to find. I think the feeder forks adjustment is probably okay for the wheat straw and Bermuda I bale. All the bales come out with even flakes left to right, provided I do a decent job raking. I had to re-adjust them last year when we baled alot of rye. The bales were C-shaped sometimes. And yes, 4020man, I would love a contact for anyone who has written a manual on knotter repair. Thanks

#8 BCFENCE

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Posted 20 August 2008 - 05:52 PM

I have a 327 JD that until last week was doing the same thing as you described. Mine turned out to be the tucker fingers wasnt pushing the twine of the bale hook. I replaced the tucker finger on the bad side and also there is a bushing that the cam on the knotters hit that was wore really bad on one side was causing it to bale a few and not tie some . That fixed mine. Hope this might help i know how those knotters will drive you insane , thanks thomas

#9 hayfarmer

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Posted 30 December 2008 - 11:54 PM

right twine dic holder may not be tight enought to hold twine. Saw one baler that work ok when tieing by hand but not tie when baling. come to find out, the bad knotter frame was cracked.




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